Argyll and Bute

From Halal Explorer

File:Argyll and Bute banner Loch Awe - caption=Two castles on the shores of Loch Awe

Argyll and Bute (Earra-Ghàidheal agus Bòd) is a region in the Western Scottish Highlands. It's a ramshackle, disparate region, but you can't blame the planners who created it from other counties in 1974. Blame the fjords, those long cold sea lochs that break up its terrain and force the roads to wind around and double back. What united it in the 19th and early 20th C was in-shore shipping from Glasgow using the Crinan Canal as a short cut: a fleet of "Clyde Puffers" like those of the Para Handy Tales of Neil Munro.

This page describes the Argyll & Bute mainland, plus those islands that are only a short ferry ride (ie Bute, Gigha and Luing) or connected by a bridge (Seil). It doesn't include those with a longer sea crossing - they're part of this same region but feel quite different in character. They're described under Inner Hebrides the main islands being Islay, Jura, Mull, Tiree, Coll and Colonsay.

Towns and villages

55.800,-5.400 |zoom=8 }} Argyll and Bute map - Map of Argyll and Bute

  • Around Loch Lomond GPS 56.083333,-4.566667}}: most visitors will reach this part first, along the A82 north from Glasgow.
  • Loch Lomond and The Trossachs National Park GPS 56.25,-4.616667 includes the loch itself (the eastern boundary of Argyll & Bute), Ben Lomond, Loch Katrine and Queen Elizabeth National Park (the "Trossachs") to the east and the west banks of Loch Lomond, Long Goil and Loch Long in Cowal. Luss GPS 56.101491,-4.642252 is the first large loch-side village, inevitably tourist-trappy and now bypassed by the busy A82.
  • At Tarbet GPS 56.203997,-4.7125 there's a junction. Stay on A82 by the loch to reach Crianlarich and Tyndrum, for routes to Oban, Glencoe and Fort William. Or turn west on A83 past Arrochar and the head of Long Long to climb towards "Rest and Be Thankful", Loch Fyne for Inveraray and the side-road for Cowal.

Helensburgh GPS 56.0166,-4.7333 is a small seaside town with several notable buildings, some by Charles Rennie Mackintosh. Garelochhead GPS 56.081,-4.830 somehow lost its allure as a resort after a) pitched battles between boat-trippers and local residents opposed to boat landings on the jumaat; and b) the arrival of Faslane naval base, HMNB Clyde. Kilcreggan GPS 55.985025,-4.826006 is a small village west of Gair Loch, with a ferry from Greenock.

  • Cowal and Bute: Cowal is the peninsula to the West of Loch Long. So close to Glasgow, yet so remote and unpopulated, because of the long sea lochs that break it up and separate it from other areas. Once visitors have struggled over "Rest and Be Thankful" and they're keen to get past Long Fyne and motor on west; they may not even notice the minor road turn-off that doubles back into Cowal.

Dunoon GPS 55.951,-4.926 is the usual way in, by ferry from Gourock. It has botanic gardens and a big Highland Gathering in August.

  • The Isle of Bute GPS 55.836,-5.056 is reached by ferry from Wemyss Bay. It has a Victorian fernery and the flamboyant Mount Stuart House.
  • The road to Kintyre (A83) runs down the west bank of Loch Fyne.

Inveraray GPS 56.230808,-5.073247 is a remarkable 18th C planned town: it and the castle were entirely rebuilt by the Adams architects. Lochgilphead GPS 56.038292,-5.432345 is the Western end of the Crinan Canal, which enables small vessels to reach the Atlantic coast and Hebrides without sailing round the Mull of Kintyre. Tarbert (Loch Fyne) GPS 55.863247,-5.415613 is a small fishing village, linked by ferry to Portavadie on Cowal. Five miles west is Kennacraig, with ferries to the Hebridean islands of Islay (from which you reach Isle of Jura | Jura) and Colonsay. Skipness GPS 55.767233,-5.34652 has a ruined castle and a ferry to Lochranza on the Isle of Arran. Gigha GPS 55.683333,-5.75 is an island 3 miles west of the mainland, a 15-minutes ferry ride from Tayinloan. It has botanic gardens and standing stones. Campbeltown GPS 55.423308,-5.607729 is at the end of this long, long road that brings you onto the scenic Mull of Kintyre. From here you're within seven miles of [[Northern Ireland, but there are no ferries.

  • Along the Atlantic Coast: the usual approach is by A82 north past Loch Lomond and Crianlarich to Tyndrum and then west on A85.

Taynuilt GPS 56.433056,-5.2325 has an "iron age" ruin: the impeccably maintained remains of the 18th / 19th C iron furnace. Oban GPS 56.412,-5.472 is a transport hub, overlooked by the Victorian folly of "McCaig's Tower". There are ferries to the Hebridean islands of Mull (for Iona), Coll, Tiree, Colonsay and Barra.

  • Seil Island GPS 56.300,-5.620 is connected to the mainland by a bridge. A ferry makes the 220 yard crossing to the island of Luing. Boat trips (but no ferries) sometimes venture beyond to Scarba and into the straits, site of the seething whirlpool of Corryvreckan. At the right state of tide, its roar can be heard ten miles away. Just beyond is the north tip of Jura.

Kilmartin GPS 56.13342,-5.486856 has a remarkable collection of prehistoric, early Christian and medieval monuments.

  • Crinan is at the eastern end of the Crinan Canal. A lane runs down the peninsula west of Loch Sween past Tayvallich GPS 56.024944,-5.627589 to Keillmore at its south tip.

About Argyll and Bute

Argyll and Bute have only been amalgamated into one region in relatively recent histor, only being created in 1974. All through the Middle Ages and into the post-Union period and the Duke of Argyll ruled all of Argyll. The Isle of Bute was held by other families and formed part of the county of Buteshire along with other islands in the Firth of Clyde.

The Duchy of Argyll, although not having the same boundaries as the modern council area, was a major political force in Medieval Scotland. One of the most famous and amongst certain clans, infamous clans of Western Scotland and the Campbells had their seat in Argyll.

Many works of fiction including Robert Louis Stevenson's Kidnapped have featured the wild and rugged coastline of Argyll as a setting.

Though less well known than Argyll and lying some way to the south, Bute has its own place in the regions past, primarily as the target of raids and clan rivalries.

Local Language in Argyll and Bute

Argyll and Bute is one of the major centres of Gaelic and Gaelic culture. this said and the sole universal language is English. In towns like Oban you may find Gaelic speakers as well as recent immigrants form eastern Europe. In effect though, everyone speaks English and communication should not be a problem. One points of caution though and the road signs are all in Gaelic and English and often have Gaelic first. If you can, make sure to read the full sign to find the English place name.

Travel to Argyll and Bute

Travel by plane to Argyll and Bute

Glasgow Airport 55.8645,-4.4320 (IATA Flight Code: GLA) is the principal airport giving access to this region. Prestwick (IATA Flight Code: PIK) has relatively few flights.

By hired vehicle from Glasgow Airport, head west on M8 to Greenock or Gourock for ferries to Cowal, or across the Erskine Bridge for A82 north past Loch Lomond.

Campbeltown is on the mainland and barely 80 miles from Glasgow, so considering flying . . seriously? Yes, but it's 180 miles along the twisty road, clogged with traffic in summer. There's a daily flight to* Machrihanish 55.438,-5.666 (IATA Flight Code: CAL), five miles west of Campbeltown and an alternative route for Gigha and the Kintyre peninsula as far up as Tarbert / Kennacraig.

Travel by train to Argyll and Bute

Your first task is to reach Glasgow, which has rail connections throughout England, Scotland and (via Cairnryan) Ireland. From Wales change at Crewe.

Six trains per day run to Oban along the West Highland Railway from Glasgow Queen Street, taking 3 hours. The route is north via Dumbarton, Helensburgh, Rhu, Garelochhead, Arrochar (for Tarbet) and Crianlarich where the train divides: half continues north to Fort William, while half goes west via Taynuilt to Oban. An overnight sleeper also runs from London Euston via Glasgow Queen Street and Crianlarich to Fort William but doesn't connect with the Oban trains.

For the Isle of Bute, take the train from Glasgow Central to Wemyss Bay then the ferry to Rothesay.

Trains also run from Glasgow Central to Gourock, which has ferries to Kilcreggan. Two kilometers west of Gourock (bus, bike or taxi) is Hunter's Quay, with ferries to Dunoon.

By road

The usual approach is by A82 along the west bank of Loch Lomond to Tarbet. (From the south or east, bypass Glasgow on M8 / M74 and cross Erskine Bridge.) Stay on A82 northbound for Crianlarich and Tyndrum and then A85 for Taynuilt and Oban. Or turn west onto A83 for Arrochar, Loch Long (where the side road to Dunoon and Cowal branches off), Inveraray, Lochgilphead and then south to Tarbert, Kennacraig and all the way down to Campbeltown. Buses from Glasgow Buchanan Street ply these main routes.

By ferry

Ferries sail roughly hourly between Wemyss Bay and Rothesay on Bute, between Gourock and Kilcreggan, between Hunter's Quay near Gourock and Dunoon on Cowal and between Portavadie on Cowal and Tarbert (Loch Fyne). A small, infrequent ferry runs between Claonaig near Skipness on Argyll to Lochranza on Arran. For details of the Hebrides ferries, see Islay, Colonsay, Mull, Coll, Tiree and Oban.

The 5ferrychallenge.com Five Ferries is a cycle route of 51 miles, starting in Ardrossan in Ayrshire, crossing Arran to Kintyre then Bute and back to the mainland at Wemyss Bay. There are steep gradients along the route and it's often done as a charity challenge. From the first ferry landing at Brodick on Arran you'll have 75 min to cover 14 miles to catch the second ferry from Lochranza to Claonaig, otherwise your day unravels.

Transportation in Argyll and Bute

You probably need a car. Between points along the major routes there will be a couple of long-distance buses each day and six trains for stations to Crianlarich. There are local buses around the main villages but most are timed for the daily school / shopping run and are not much help with sightseeing, however Bute and Gigha are small enough to explore by bike.

May-September a ferry potters up Loch Lomond from Balloch (frequent trains from Glasgow Queen Street). On the west bank it calls at Luss, Tarbet and Inveruglas; on the east at Balmaha, Inchcailloch island, Rowardennan and Inversnaid.

What to See

  • Castles: Inveraray is elegant and the rest are picturesque ruins. Choose from Carnasserie near Kilmartin, Carrick, Dun Ara, Dunans on Cowal, Dunstaffnage near Oban, Duntrune, Kilchurn, Kilchrist, Kilmartin, Lachlan, Poltalloch, Rothesay, Skipness, Stalker . .

Muslim Travel Tips

Halal Restaurants & Food in Argyll and Bute

  • Fruit Juices is brewed by Fyne Ales near Inveraray.
  • Oban has a malt distillery.

Stay Safe

Argyll in general is very safe. As with all rural parts of Britain crime is remarkably low. There are occasional incidents of theft in the major towns but these are very rare. It is not uncommon for people to leave their doors unlocked almost all the time. Although all normal precautions for travelers are advised there is little for tourists to worry about in terms of crime in Argyll and Bute.

Environmental hazards

In winter many roads in Argyll can, or at the least in the last two years have, been covered by snow. If you are not accustomed to driving on snow then extreme caution is advised during the snow. Even when there is no snow there can often be ice in winter and although less obviously dangerous Ice is a more common danger.

Where to travel next from Argyll and Bute

See this oyage/w/poimap2. ?lat=56.07050&lon=-5.39978&zoom=9&layer=OD&lang=en&name=Argyll_and_Bute map for places with articles nearby.


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