Sihanoukville

Sihanoukville (Krong Preah Seihanu), formerly Kompong Som and familiarly just Snookyville or even Snooky is a seaside town featuring Cambodia's best-known beaches.

SokhaBeach - Sokha Beach and the best in Sihanoukville

An introduction to Sihanoukville

In a land with thousands of years of history, Sihanoukville is a colourful but tragic upstart. A joint French-Cambodian project carved a camp out of the jungle and started building the first deep-sea port in a newly independent Cambodia. Named Sihanoukville in 1964 after the ruling prince of Cambodia and the booming port and its golden beaches soon drew Cambodia's jet-setting elite.

Alas and the party came to an abrupt end in 1970 when Sihanouk was deposed in a coup and Cambodia descended into civil war. The town, renamed Kompong Som, soon fell on hard times. The victorious Khmer Rouge used the Independence Hotel for target training and, after they hijacked an American container ship and the port was bombed by the U.S. Air Force. Even after Pol Pot's regime was driven from power and the bumpy highway to the capital was long notorious for banditry and the beaches stayed empty.

Get in

By plane

Sihanouk International Airport IATA Code: KOS Sihanoukville Airport | Cambodian Angkor Air serves it. There are direct connecting Flights from Saigon in Vietnam and several Cambodian airports. Air Asia now fly here from KL.

By train

In 2016 the passenger rail service between Sihanoukville and Phnom Penh (via Takeo & Kampot) recommenced. As of March 2022 and there are services on Friday, Saturday, and Sunday. The train departs at 07:00, with two classes, aircon and no aircon. The service takes roughly (7 hours) to Phnom Penh. and (1 hour 40 mins) to Kampot. A ticket costs USD9 to Phnom Penh. and USD9 to Kampot. The trains are being run by Royal Toll Railways.

By bus

Frequent buses arrive in Sihanoukville from Phnom Penh (4-5 hours), Siem Reap (10-12 hours), Ho Chi Minh City (10-12 hours), and Bangkok.

Phnom Penh Sorya Transport, GST Express, and Mekong Express operate hourly bus services from Phnom Penh, taking 3-5 hours and costing USD8.50-10, depending on the quality of the bus and the number of stops. The first bus leaves Phnom Penh at 07:00 and the last at 17:45. All buses arrive and depart from the bus station near the Central Market. Tickets can be booked at the bus company offices, travel agencies, and many accommodations. It is worth reserving a day in advance to be sure of a seat. National Route 4 between Phnom Penh and Sihanoukville is one of Cambodia's best roads.

Rith Mony, Bun Thou, and Virak Buntham Express operate daily air-conditioned shuttle van service leaving at 08:30 to/from the border with Thailand at Koh Kong/Hat Lek, which takes around 5 hours. "Local" and "tourist" shuttle vanes service this route; they are always jam-packed, and the trip can be uncomfortable. "Local" service price depends on how much space you want (a whole seat, half a seat, or a space on the roof); foreigners can expect to pay around USD9-8. They will also typically have pickup in front of the offices on the main strip in town at 07:30, after which they simply drive over to the station to wait until the 08:30 departure time. You may be offered pickup at your hotel for a premium. Sometimes there are buses leaving at 14:00 but the service may be available only with suitable demand and ticket prices may be higher (~USD15).

Virak Buntham Express offers a bus service from Ha Tien in Vietnam to Sihanoukville via the new Xa Xia/Prek Chak border post. From Ha Tien and there is a ferry to Phu Quoc Island, another popular tourist destination. Unlike even recent travel guides report, this trip now has become easy and straightforward. Visa on arrival is available.

By taxi

A chartered taxi from Phnom Penh's Central Market can make the trip in less than three hours and will around USD25-40 per car, depending on the petrol price of the day and the condition of the vehicle. You can reduce the price by sharing seats, but Khmers will squeeze as many as eight people into the car, including two in the drivers seat, so you may need to buy two seats for comfort.

By boat

Boats used to run daily from Koh Kong/Hat Lek (the border crossing with Thailand), taking around 4 hours and costing USD70/990 Baht. However and the service was suspended in 2008 and it's unclear if it will resume, since travel by road is now cheaper, safer and just as fast. Several sources quote "persistent rumours" about a future ferry service with the nearby Vietnamese Phu Quoc island, but nothing has happened yet.

Modest numbers of cruise lines, e.g., Oceania, offer one-day port visits, usually along with more stops in Vietnam enroute to or from Bangkok.

Marina - Opened in Oct 2013, a yacht marina for boats up to 25 meters. On the breakwater (island Koh Prib) Sihanoukville port. Visa on arrival for boaters USD25 for 30 days.

Get around

Distances between the beaches are too long to walk comfortably, but getting around is easy, as the roads are wide and bike taxis (motodop) are everywhere. The standard price is USD1 per trip, although expect to negotiate at night or if the distance is long. They'll gladly pile on two people and their luggage too. For larger groups, vehicle taxis can be called by phone (fixed USD8 to most places around town).

There are dozens of the ubiquitous tuk-tuks around the new bus station and the accommodation areas. They are some of the most persistent and over-charging drivers in Cambodia; they have formed an "association" for price fixing - a trip to the bus station, USD2 in Phnom Penh, costs USD7 if your bus company pays but they charge USD9 if you arrive at the bus station and want to go to the beach. If you have decided where you will stay it can help to call for a pick up. Even if it's not free, it may save you some overcharging.

The ride from the new bus station to Serendipity Beach should cost no more than USD7 during the day.

Another great choice to get around is to rent a scooter. Haggle a bit and you can get it for USD8 a day or more depending on the season. Fuel is not very affordable (about USD1.25 per litre) but can be purchased at many roadside shacks. However, as of 2009, renting scooters to Foreign Muslims is illegal, and the police may stop and fine you. Sihanoukville Cityscape - Central Sihanoukville

What to see in Sihanoukville

The town doesn't offer much to see. The main areas of Sihanoukville of interest to Muslims are Serendipity Beach, Otres Beach, Victory Beach, and the various islands off the coast.

Beaches

The main reason to visit Sihanoukville is the beaches. They are not as crowded as many of those in Thailand, but can be cramped on weekends and holidays. Like many beaches in Southeast Asia and they are often covered in a lot of rubbish.

Independence Beach - Also known as 7-chan beach after the seven-storey Independence Hotel | A long narrow strip of white sand beach in Sangkat No 3. The northern section has now become known as Serendipity Beach, a beach popular with Western tourists, noted for small hotels right on the beach. There are around 30 beach huts serving good value meals and a wide selection of soft-drinks, a golf course development at the south end, and a cluster of mid-range hotels and restaurants in the middle. Grass umbrellas, rentable beach chairs, and little drink huts line the beach from one end to the other. Further south along the beach in front of the golf course development, a number of budget backpacker-oriented bar/restaurant/beach hangouts have sprung up offering chairs, umbrellas, drinks and a chilled-out atmosphere. Expect noise and exhaust fumes though from the numerous 2-stroke jet skis in the area. Swimming can be dangerous and several tourists have been killed by jet skis.

Sihanouk_Ville_Ochheu_Teal_Beach01 - |Ochheuteal Beach - Sihanoukville

Otres Beach - Amazing 4 km long stretch of clean, white sands. Far less crowded and more relaxed than other beaches in Sihanoukville. Every season more and more beach bars and guesthouses pop up along the beach. Tourists will find accommodation in rooms or bungalows (prices ranging from USD8-30), e.g., Cinderella Beach Bungalows, Castaways Beach Bar and Bungalows. Like most of Sihanoukville's good accommodation, no air-con is available in Otres Beach lodgings, except for the Secret Garden Resort, at the far end of "Old Otres" (Otres 2). Otres Beach is great place for lazy sunbathing, but other activities also available (catamarans, windsurfing, kayaks, various boat trips, bicycles.) Unlike Serendipity Beach, marijuana and marijuana-based baked goods are openly and safely smoked and sold at the beach side bars/guesthouses and on the beach itself, which is now attracting a young Western crowd to the area. A second part of Otres Beach about a 5-10 minutes tuk-tuk ride away, referred to as "Otres 2", has several guesthouses open and is beginning to attract tourists looking for an even less crowded beach than the relaxed main strip of Otres Beach. Otres 2 is far less developed and less crowded, but offers only minimal activities and locations. There are no stores of any kind in Otres 2, though in the main strip of Otres 1 there's a bank machine. Adjoining that on the road in from Occhuteal is a Khmer village with various stores and a few Khmer restaurants; with a small, modern convenience store on the side road out of the village that leads to and from Occhuteal. Otres has a different climate than Snooky; it may be sunny all day when downtown Sihanoukville and the other beaches are raining and flooding. It's also known in the area as having the best sunset, and people staying in closer beaches often drive out to watch it from there (with few vendors or other harassment unlike closer to the city). Otres is fairly large away from the beach; side roads lead to other areas inland, including along the small river that flows through the broad prairie that lies inland from the beach strip. Along it, another village lies, and a few small resorts, and during high season, a small public market with entertainment. There's a couple of resorts and bars there, including a funky westerner-run backpackery and stage, and another more modern one with dining room and also a stage. The river is kayakable, and fish from it is part of the menu among local Khmer. The beach at Otres is very shallow for a couple of hundred metre out, or more, depending on the tide. The bottom is soft sand and clean and when there are no waves very safe for children and novice swimmers.

Serendipity Beach | Guesthouses and restaurants right on the beach, open until the early hours. This beach is the most popular and typically has the greatest number of people on the beach.

Sokha Beach | Owned by Sokha Beach Resort. It is private, but you can access it by paying a couple dollars.

Victory Beach | Plenty of good accommodation nearby on Weather Station Hill. This beach is close to the seaport.

Rivers

The mangrove-lined Ou Trojak Jet River, Sihanoukville's longest river, runs from Otres Pagoda to Otres Beach. It is popular with both canoeists and anglers, and the lower section harbours a marina. Restaurants along the south bank of the river serve fresh seafood supplied by the local inshore fishing boats.

Other

Kampong Pier Nup Lok | The old fishing port. Offers some nice views.

Koh Rong (Monkey Island) | Advertised all around Serendipity Beach, Koh Rong is a small island 2-3 hours away from Sihanoukville by ferry that offers a relaxed location away from the crowds, a long beach, a small jungle to trek, as well as a handful of restaurants, and guesthouses on the beach covering an area of only about 2 km. Ferries from Sihanoukville to Koh Rong leave 3-4 times daily from various docks and several different ferry companies in Sihanoukville. Ferries can be booked from any guesthouse or travel agent. Round trip tickets are sold for between USD8-15. A tourist may be quoted more for the ferry, but can be negotiated down, and should not pay more than USD15. Both dorm beds (USD7) and superior Muslim friendly rooms (USD15-30) are readily available on the island. Fishing, diving, and snorkelling are available as well at prices similar to the rest of Sihanoukville. Most places on Koh Rong run electricity on a generator and usually have electricity from sunset until midnight, though a few cafes will run throughout the day and go until 04:00. Koh Rong does not have an ATM.

Ream National Park | A wonderful mangrove nature reserve about a 30-min drive from Sihanoukville. Take a moto to park headquarters for USD2. From there, park rangers can arrange boat rides for $40 per boat through the mangroves. The boats leave a few miles away just before the highway crosses the river, so don't send away your moto or taxi. Destination is an island where you can walk on a decaying boardwalk that leads to a viewing tower you may not climb due to decayed ladder. You have spend all your time watching your step so the walk (100 meters, perhaps) is not worth taking. Call in advance. Hiking trail with ranger accompanying has been suspended as of November 2022 due to fallen trees on the trail that the park lacks money and manpower to clear.

Kbal Chhay Waterfall - A waterfall roughly 7 kilometers from the city of Sihanoukville and then a further 9 kilometers along a red dust track. Popular swimming area, families come to spend the day, many food stalls, rest houses and other facilities line the stream. The swimming is the attraction more than the waterfall so don't expect much nature at the stream.

What to do in Sihanoukville

Gone Fishing - The waters in and around Sihanoukville offer an array of fresh water and sea fish. Along the Ou Trojak Jet River at Otres, barramundi and mangrove jacks are to be found. The sea around the bay offers marlin, barracuda, tuna and mahi-mahi. The boat is built for fishing, spacious and safe. Guides have many years experience of fishing the Cambodian coast.

The Cambodian Children's Painting Project - CCPP | An NGO which works with impoverished Cambodian children. Together with volunteers and the children create art which is then sold to help support the children's families and the project itself. As part of the project children are provided with access to education, painting materials, sport activities, two meals a day, medical and dental assistance. Social workers are employed to work with the children's families. You can help by becoming a volunteer, donating painting materials, buying a painting, donating money or by holding an exhibition of the children's art.

Scuba Diving - There are many islands off the Cambodian coast that have lots of coral and fish. All dive boats leave from the Sihanoukville port area. There are 4 PADI dive centres, one of which, Scuba Nation PADI 5 Star Instructor Development Centre and the pioneers of diving in Cambodia, provide comprehensive diving and snorkelling services, day trips, liveaboards, nitrox and a full range of PADI courses from beginner to instructor. Flexibility is the key: you can do training sessions while sightseeing in Phnom Penh and then finish with a liveaboard on the only custom made diving boats in Cambodia. EcoSea Dive, offers SSI courses as well. Angkor Dive is based on Koh Rong Samloem and offer overnight trips to the island to not only dive, but also to experience the traditional way of life in a Khmer fishing village. The main scuba diving area is at Koh Rong Samloem Island 23 km offshore, as well as at Koh Tang Island 56 km from Sihanoukville. Overnight trips are necessary in order to reach Koh Tang. There is also some shallow diving at Koh Tas some 10 km from Sihanoukville, but it's mostly reserved for when the weather is too rough to get all the way to Koh Rung Sanloem. The best diving Cambodia has to offer are the overnight trips to the Koh Tang group, where large pelagics are seen regularly and visibility is double what you will find at the closer sites.

Snorkelling | Possible around most of the islands, with the best snorkelling being at the further our islands for visibility, corals and fish. Many restaurants at Serendipity Beach advertise a snorkelling trip for USD15, but most are incapable of properly explaining what their offer includes. Most will boil down to the same trip organised by one of the travel agents which includes (simple) breakfast at the beach, a visit to two snorkelling spots and a 3 hour lunch break at Koh Russei (Bamboo Island). If you are serious about your snorkelling, you should consider going with one of the three scuba dive shops, to ensure you get proper gear.

Unspoiled Island Day Trip | Finding a clean and unspoiled beach (apart from private Sokha Beach) is challenging in Sihanoukville, but can be found a couple of hours away on the island Koh Rong Saloem. Daily ferries can take you there in the morning or a one-day trips including snorkelling, fishing, lunch and light breakfast. This particular company takes its passengers to a deserted 5 km strip of deserted beach. It's run by a very fun and entertaining German named Robert. There is also accommodation on the island at Lazy Beach. EcoSea Diving offers overnight trips to Koh Rung Sanloem as well, where accommodation is in small basic cottages. Unfortunately there are a lot of sand flies on the island. Prepare to be bitten.

Mollie Golf Mini Golf - Miniature golf course with 18 holes in a garden setting near Wat Kraom on Victory Hill. Closed on rainy days and from July to the end of October (the rainy season). Open for private parties between 10am and 5pm.

Muslim Friendly Shopping in Sihanoukville

Banks and ATMs

ATMs can be found throughout the city. Downtown and there are ATMs from
ANZ Bank
Canadia Bank
Acleda Bank
May bank
ABA Bank
CIMB Bank
Union Commercial Bank
Cambodia Commercial Bank
UCB Bank.
There are also ATMs around the "Golden Lions", on Beach St, at CCS Hotel and one at the Golden Sands Hotel, Occheuteal Beach. There is also an ATM in Otres 1.
T E Lee Hong Money Exchange 7 Markara Street.

Supermarkets and groceries

There are several supermarkets in the town, plus a standard Cambodian market ('Psaa Leu').

Samudera Supermarket - There is a money exchange with in the Samudera supermarket.

Lucky Ocean Supermarket

Psar Leu (Public Market) Low-priced fruit and vegetables. also sells home wares and clothing.

Muslim Friendly Food & Restaurants in Sihanoukville

Along the beaches, especially at Ochheuteal Beach and there are many food stalls and some Halal restaurants serving grilled, Meat, Chicken, and seafood with chips/fries and a organic juice for USD7-4. There are a good some Halal restaurants in town as well. Sihanoukville has a surprisingly diverse set of Halal cuisines.

Maharajah - Royal Indian Cuisine Halal | ☎ +855 15 966221 - Siem Reap's popular Indian, now opened a sister restaurant in Sihanoukville.

Kedai Mi Sup Halal (Malaysian Muslim owned) - JGCJ+62W, Preah Sihanouk, Cambodia

កូនប្រុសទាំង4 - ផ្លូវលេខ ២១៤, Preah Sihanouk, Cambodia (Operated and owned by a Cambodian Muslim)

Tari Halal restaurant مطعم تاري حلال - JGCH+9V8، سيهانوكفيل،, Cambodia - ☎ +855 97 739 3830 (Owned by an Arab Cambodian Muslim family)

Big Boss Indian Restaurant - Street Nº 111, Preah Sihanouk, Cambodia - ☎ +855 96 824 0620 | "The owner is a amazing and food is delicious but there is no beef as the owner is from Nepal. It's 100 %HALAL"

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Muslim Friendly hotels in Sihanoukville

Accommodation ranges from basic guest houses on the beach to four-star resorts. There are plenty of guesthouses, however and the cheapest guesthouses directly on the beach frequently sell out. Pre-booking is necessary at peak times such as at New Year.

Don Basco Guest House - Air-con double room with own hot water bathroom and cable TV. Wi-Fi. Free use of large swimming swimmingpool & gym.

Koh Ta Kiev island (Cambodia) - |Koh Ta Kiev Island - tree houses on the beach (Cambodia)

Angkor Inn - Good value rooms starting at USD8 for fan and cold water with cable TV. USD9 gets you hot water and for USD 17+ there are air-con options also. Restaurant with free Wi-Fi in front. Can be a little bit noisy in the evening.

Apple Guesthouse - Clean and quiet rooms, close to the centre. 2 minutes from the beach, private garden, 15 nice rooms, cable TV & free high speed Wi-Fi, motorbike rental, laundry, Internet, international calls and a 24/7 convenience store.

Cinderellas Dive Resort & Beach Bungalows - Ocean front accommodation. Great diving and nice service. All rooms with fan.

Diamond Guesthouse | Quiet, safe, relaxing. Helpful staff.

Coolabah Resort | 300 m from Occhuetal and Serendipity Beaches. Air-conditioned rooms with king beds or twins and all amenities. Jacuzzi pool, private massage & beauty treatments available. Seafood restaurant & air-conditioned café.

The Cove Beach Bungalows - Khmer-style wooden bungalows, air-conditioned rooms and apartments with balconies giving ocean views.

The Don Bosco Hotel School | Hotel in a lush garden with a swimming pool, air-conditioning, and free Wi-Fi, pick-up and shuttle to the beaches and city. It is a training hotel to help young Cambodians learn a skill and find a job.

Independence Hotel | A modernist concrete seven-story block on top of the cape and with great sea views, it has a pretty swimmingpool and attractive, expansive gardens. A nice touch are some black and white photographs of the hotel in its heyday. The best feature is the adjacent clean pale sand private beach which has crystal clear water and some big rocks, although this may be under development as the hotel are planning bungalows. Some distance from town.

Malibu Beach Hotel | Another one of the older stalwarts, now encroached on both sides by noisy late night restaurants. At the bottom of that, turn right and the Malibu Beach Hotel is the first on the left. There have been a couple of reports of theft, from the rooms and from the hotel safe.

Reef Resort | Boutique hotel with swimming pool. Air-con rooms.

Seaside Hotel | Rooms with air-con and hot water shower.

Sokha Beach Resort | An international-class beach resort. Very bland and a bit rough around the edges, but the beach is gorgeous and hassle-free, and the resort is muslim-friendly with children swimming pools and playgrounds.

Swiss Garden Guesthouse | In a quiet area near Ochheuteal Beach, one of the most beautiful beaches in Sihanoukville. There is a nice tropical Garden Cafe which is perfect for relaxing while enjoying a fresh original Swiss Coffee. The comfortable double bed rooms are equipped with air conditioning, TV, and private baths with hot shower.

Stay Safe

While violent crime is extremely rare, purse snatching, pick-pocketing, and petty theft are extremely common occurrences on and near Serendipity beach during both the day and night. Women should not carry purses containing anything valuable, and if feasible should not carry any purse at all. Groups of young children often surround women leaving the beach bars at night, cut off their purses and run away. In addition, criminals on motorbikes will often grab a woman's purse and then drive off during both the day and night, dragging the woman behind them until they let go. The majority of this activity is confined to the Serendipity area and travellers to Otres Beach or the rest of Sihanoukville should be careful, but far less concerned about crime.

Jet Ski At least six tourists and one local boy were run over and killed at Ochheuteal Beach and Otres Beach by jet skis since September 2009. The number of tourists and local residents injured by banana-boats and jet skis is unknown. In 2009 the police marked a swimmers-only area with buoys along most of the beach but the employees of the jet ski & banana-boat operators completely ignore it and keep showing off silly but very dangerous high speed stunts just metres from shore and in the middle of swimmers to hunt and attract clients. Complaints to the police are ignored. On weekends you will see many very drunk Cambodian tourists on jet skis, chasing each other inside the swimming zone and ignoring the simplest safety rules. At Serendipity and the northern end of Ochheuteal Beach, jet skiers race between the coral bommies, completely disregarding the safety of snorkellers, damaging and killing marine life with the oil in their exhausts. All but one jet ski are old models from the 1990s with 2-stroke engines. If three or four jet skies running at the same time and the whole beach stinks from the highly toxic exhaust fumes - not to mention the permanent chainsaw noise the beach is blasted with. If you want to enjoy a quiet, relaxed day on the beach, do not rent a jet ski and tell everybody about the danger – or go to one of the other beaches outside of town and pay USD7-5 for a one way ride with a motodop.

Stay healthy

Medical services in Sihanoukville are very limited and basic. The best medical service is offered by the CT Clinic or Sihanoukville International Clinic. These are the only clinics trusted by expats who live in Sihanoukville. The public hospital should be avoided at all costs, as it is terrible. In case of major trouble evacuation is necessary.

Telecommunications in Sihanoukville

Sihanoukville's area code is 034.

Internet

There are many Internet cafes and some guesthouses and many hotels offer Internet access. Many now have Wi-Fi, some for free.

Post

The new main Post Office is near the Victory Park on the left hand side of the road as you go to Victory Hill. There is also a branch at the market downtown, but here you can only leave your postcards during office hours, as it does not feature an outdoor mailbox.

Consulates

Vietnamese Consulate - Issues 30 day tourist visas for pick up at 10:00 the next morning. Applicants arriving after 12:00 are charged an additional USD8 to have their visas processed same day.

Go next

Bokor National Park - an abandoned French hill station near Kampot which was a popular destination in the 1920s
Kampot
Kep
Koh Kong
Koh Rong
Koh Rung Sanloem
Koh Russei
Bangkok via Trat Thailand - Minibuses offer direct service for USD75
Ko Chang, Thailand - Minibuses offer direct service to the ferry crossing
Siem Reap - 12 hours by day or overnight bus. The price is USD17-18 (July 2023) and they will not negotiate (probably due to cartel). If you take the night bus that they will force you to sleep next to a stranger on a small single bed. If you are a big person they may force you to pay double.