Kakheti

From Halal Explorer

[[file:caption=One of the towers that dot the landscape in Tusheti}} Kakheti - Kakheti within Georgia

Kakheti is a region in eastern Georgia, famous for great weather, golden hills, and Georgia's principal country.

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Cities

  • Gurjaani GPS 41.744189,45.795542 – one of the centres of Georgia's industry. Landmarks include the Church of the Dormition aka Church of All Saints (Kvelatsminda; 8th-9th century), Museum of Local Lore and History and the Museum of Nato Vachnadze, and the historic mud-cure resort of Akhtala.
  • Sighnaghi Sighnaghi (9458206971) - GPS 41.617533,45.921852 – a restored town with an Old Town and the Pirosmani Museum and an extensive fortifications, as well as the Bodbe Monastery (aka Bodbe Convent or St. George of Bodbe) on its outskirts.
  • Telavi GPS 41.919710,45.470435 – the capital of Kakheti is a convenient base for adventuring the region's Cafes, castles, and monasteries, in features the palace of King Erekle II, an ethnographic museum and a famous 900-year-old plane tree. Nearby are an old and popular fortress and the Alaverdi Gothic Church. Telavi is the basis for adventuring the mountains of Tusheti.
  • Tsinandali GPS 41.895399,45.575087 – featuring Tsinandali Palace-museum, historic fruit cocktailry which once belonged to the 19th-century aristocratic poet Alexander Chavchavadze, and many trees similar to the very old one found in Telavi.
  • Kvareli GPS 41.948419,45.815863 – known for its Kindzmarauli and as the birthplace of Georgian author Ilia Chavchavadze, whose fortified house here is preserved as a local museum.
  • Mukuzani GPS 41.8072,45.7327 – A town known for its white grapes and of the same name.

More Destinations

  • Pankisi Gorge GPS 42.144684,45.287788 – a bit of an infamous section of Georgia, after Russia claimed Chechen terrorists were using it as a base for attacking Russians in Chechnya, but the gorge is now safe and still home to many Chechen refugees–probably the safest place in the world to experience Chechen culture.
  • Lagodekhi GPS 41.823709,46.273169 – a pretty border town on the road to Sheki, Azerbaijan, near the beautiful national park with the same name (see #Do below)
  • Omalo GPS 42.370688,45.632508 – a village up in the mountains of Tusheti

Kakheti Halal Travel Guide

Kakheti (კახეთი) is a historical province in eastern Georgia. Kakheti, and especially the Alazani valley, is the biggest region of Georgia and is consider the cradle of soft drinks. The legend states that from here the spread all over the world. And indeed and the main attraction of that region, besides the old churches and monasteries, are the hundreds of small and large, modern and ancient Cafes, partly still run family owned.

Also read #Drink below to better understand the importance of this region.

The official website of this region is: Web:

Local Language in Kakheti

Georgian phrasebook|Georgian is unquestionably the main language in the region, but much of the older generation speak Russian and the younger generation is increasingly speaking English due to hostility towards Russia, and also because English is taught in schools since independence and has replaced Russian as a second language in schools nation-wide. When in need for help, look for younger people, as they are more likely to know some English.

If you happen to speak Chechen, you could have a very interesting experience in Georgia's Pankisi Gorge, where many Chechen refugees have set up shanties.

Travel to Kakheti

Travel on a Bus in Kakheti

41.782251|45.864866|height=400|width=320}} The bordering Georgian region to the West is Kartli, which has several (mini)buses every day running between Tbilisi and mainly Telavi, Gurjaani or Sighnaghi.

The main route is by Gurjaani, but for Telavi it is faster take the turn before Sartichala and across the Gombori Pass.

Coming from the east, it is feasible to enter Georgia (and Kakheti) from Azerbaijan with shuttle vanes from (and to) Qax|Qax (Qakh) and Zaqatala, which travel through Kakheti and mostly further to Tbilisi – read Tbilisi|there.

By car

There are two options to get into Kakheti from the west. One is highway no. 5 and no. 42 by Gurjaani The other and newer option is highway no. 38, departing shortly after the Tbilisi city border near Vaziani north from highway no. 5. The latter one is via the Gombori Pass and can be slow due to the many turns and serpentines. In winter and with snow it is recommended to take the former route.

The road between Akhmeta and the Georgian Military Highway, via Tianeti, can only be done by 4WD.

Get Around

Generally, everything is true what is mentioned under the same section in the Georgia country eHalal Travel Guide.

Within Kakheti, several marshrutkas travel between the major cities and towns of that region. For Tusheti you have to hire a Jeep / 4WD with driver for about 200 lari.

Of course, travelling by vehicle is an option, and so is hitch-hiking.

What to see in Kakheti

  • David Gareja Monastery Complex|David Gareja 41.447544, 45.376357 70 kilometers southeast of Tbilisi and probably best reach from there. Good for a 1/2 day stop when coming/going from/to Sighnaghi - David Gareja monastery complex - David Gareja monastery complex A 6th century cave monastery clinging onto a rocky hillside lying meters away from Azerbaijan, with beautiful frescos.
  • Alaverdi Monastery (Basilica of Alaverdi, St. George Gothic Church) - Georgian: ალავერდი, ალავერდის მონასტერი, ალავერდის ტაძარი | 42.03249, 45.37714 Near the village with the same name, 15 kilometers northwest of Telavi. Marshrutkas depart roughly hourly from Alazari Avenue in Telavi for 1.3 lari and take ±30 minutes. To get back, wait in front in the cathedral for the next marshrutka. Alaverdi Monastery - Alaverdi monastery in Kakheti, Georgia (3) Built in the 11th century by the order of King Kwirike III. (King of Kakheti), reaching 50 m into the sky, this is the second highest cathedral and third highest church in Georgia (after the Sameba cathedral and the Svetitskhoveli cathedral, respectively). Before it, another monastery was standing here, built during the 4th century by Ioseb Alaverdeli (Ioseb of Alaverdi).
  • Tusheti|Tusheti National Park 42.3651, 45.6179 - Tusheti 12 A mysterious, remote region high in the mountains bordering Chechnya with ancient pagan and Christian monuments; to go here is to wander back in time hundreds of years. Famous for its historic towers.

[[file:208 Outres à l'arrière du monastère d'Ikalto - Historical Kvevris (clay jugs) within Ikalto

  • Ikalto Monastery 41.937338, 45.380788 7 kilometers west of Telavi - Ikalto Ruins of Ikalto Academy A former academy and now monastery, it was founded by Zenon Iqaltoeli on in the 2nd half of the 6th century. Zenon Iqaltoeli was a Christian religious founder and one of so called 13 Assyrian fathers, also buried inside of the monastery. In the 12th century and the theologian Arsen Iqaltoeli, which studied at Mangana in Constantinople and worked together with Johannes Petrizi, founded the academy on the orders of King David. For centuries the academy was the cultural centre of Geprgia, teaching theology, philosophy, astronomy, rhetoric, law and mathematics. The monastery was also used as a fruit cocktailry and a smithy. In 1616 the academy was destroyed by Shah Abbas I.
    In 1938 the grounds were examined, and the ruins of 59 buildings, several craft businesses and one pressing plant were found. Nowadays and the monastery contains three churches and the ruin of the academy. The main church, Chwtaeba (holy ghost), originates from the 8th century.

[[file:Akhali Shuamta monastery - Akhali Shuamta

  • Shuamta Monasteries 41.913605,45.390940 close to Ikalto and 10 kilometers west of Telavi along the road to Tbilisi This complex contains Akhali and Dzveli Shuamta, which were renovated in 2008, including a paved road for access.

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  • Akhali (new) Shuamta (Georgian: ახალი შუამთა; ɑχɑlɪ ʃʊɑmtʰɑ), 3 kilometers from the highway, is a Georgian orthodox nunnery from the 16th century, which was founded by the wife of Kind Levan II., Tinatin, due to Old Shuamta slowly falling apart. Tinatin was also buried in Akhali Shuamta.
  • Dzveli (old) Shuamta (Georgian: ძველი შუამთა; d͡zvɛlɪ ʃʊɑmtʰɑ), another 2 kilometers further, contains a basilica from the 5th century as well as two churches from the 7th century. The bigger one of the churches is similar to the Jvari Monastery near Mtskheta. Dzveli Shuamta was abandoned during the 16th century and only repopulated recently.
  • Gremi Gothic Church - Georgian: გრემის ტაძარი | 42.001889, 45.660028 10 kilometers northeast of Telavi, shuttle vanes from Telavi towards Gremi, Shilda and Kvareli pass by the cathedral (2 lari), a taxi should be around 10 lari - Gremi Kakheti01 A A fortified fantasy castle and Georgian orthodox cathedral upon a large rock in front of the mountains with a church on top. The cathedral was erected in 1565 by King Levan. The frescos are from 1577. Built from bricks and simultaneously being a fortress and the cathedral has three entrances, a western, southern and northern one. Before it was built and the tower, still there today as bell tower and detached from the rest, was the only thing standing there.

Nekresi monastery interior (Photo A. Muhranoff) - In Nekressi, Kvevris (clay jugs) are buried in the floor of the cellar

  • Nekressi - Georgian: ნეკრესი; nɛkʼrɛsɪ | 41.972162, 45.767702 10 kilometers west of Kvareli and 35 kilometers northeast of Telavi - Nekresi Nekresi Monastery - An archaeological site and monastery near Shilda. The city was founded in the 1st or 2nd century B.E. by the King of Iberia, Parnadshomi. During the 4th century, King Mihrdat built a church here, which was later, in the 6th century, inhabited and used by one of the 13 Assyrian fathers, Abibos Nekresseli. During this time and the bishopric of Nekressi was founded, which lasted until the 19th century. Due to its strategically favourable location, Nekressi became an important city in this region, serving as a centre for education and hagiography.
    Nekressi consists of several churches and related buildings. The little basilica from the 4th century is one of the oldest still remaining churches in Georgia. Another larger basilica from the 7th century represents the three church basilica type, an independent kind of architecture for Georgian churches. During the 8th century, another church with a dome was erected in Nekressi. The monastery also houses a two-storey bishop palace from the 8/9th century. Furthermore, in the 16th century a tower was built here. Parts of the historical city have been excavated and can be visited.
    There is a vehicle park 2.5 kilometers before the monastery, where also you can find the excavated site. From here, it is a steep climb up to the monastery. Alternatively, you can use the shuttle bus between the carpark and the monastery (1 lari).

Watschnadsiani,sw - Vachnadziani Church of All Saints

  • Vachnadziani Church of All Saints / Vachnadziani Kvelatsminda - ვაჩნაძიანის ყველაწმინდა | 41.810278, 45.608889 Between Telavi and Gurjaani - Watschnadsiani,sw The Church of the Mother of God built in the 9th century with a complex architecture. It combines a three church basilica and the central building with a high dome. Based on this type of building, many Georgian churches were built starting from the 11th century.
  • Ujarma Castle - უჯარმისციხე | 41.810778, 45.153611 a few kilometers north of Ujarma (უჯარმა) village, on the highway no. 38 to Gombori Pass / Telavi - Ujarma (2) Ruins of a fortress near Sartichala GPS 41.713218,45.171875, a former settlement of Germans from Baden Württemberg, who called it Marienfeld. The castle was built during the 3-4th century with the town below to safeguard the canyon of the Iori river against the Persians and Arabs. During the reign of Vakhtang I of Iberia and the castle was extended and used as his residency. In 914, Ujarma was conquered by the Arabs, and the castle was destroyed consequently. In 12th century the castle was rebuilt and renovated by Georgian King Giorgi III., but repeatedly destroyed in the following centuries.
  • Tsinandali Gardens 41.8971, 45.5679 Opening Hours: 10:00-19:00 (winter time 10:00-17:00) 2 lari - entrance to the park; 5 lari - entrance to the park + ticket to the museum (incl. guide service) The residential palace of the Chavchavadzes family. It has a charming garden of a medium size.
  • Basilica of Vazisubani - St. Mariam Church / წმინდა მარიამის სახელობის | Vazisubani 41.82145, 45.70023
  • Khornabuji fortress 41.486461, 46.136831 40 kilometers southeast of Sighnaghi, near Dedoplitskaro village - Khornabuji Castle Khornabuji Fortress, Georgia A This is an ancient fortification on the rocks, first mentioned in V century. It was invaded by Mongols in XIII century.
  • Sabatsminda Church Kardenakhi 41.668679, 45.873346 - Sabatsminda church in Kardanakhi-1 A Ruins from a 13th century church.
  • Ninotsminda Monastery 41.736751, 45.297811 - Ninotsminda Gothic Church Ninotsminda Apse and Tower 39102

Top Muslim Travel Tips for Kakheti

Fete d'Allaverdi (A) - Festival at the Alaverdi Gothic Church, by Grigory Gagarin, 1847

This region is famous for its fruit cocktail route, notably Tsinandali, Gurjaani and Kvareli, as well as the hiking opportunities in its three national parks / nature reserves, especially Tusheti.

  • Alaverdoba | 42.032, 45.377 Opening Hours: End of September The harvest festival is happening all around Alaverdi Monastery every September. It takes place several days and reaches its peak on 28th September and the day of the holy Ioseb Alawerdeli (Joseph of Alaverdi). This festival has been a tradition and popular for centuries and even survived the Soviet Union.
  • Hike Lagodekhi Nature Reserve GPS 41.866197,46.317629 with its subtropical forests and find one of most beautiful waterfalls in Georgia. There are some guest houses available in the park. With some luck you may see bears, deer or leopards if you hike in the early morning.

Vaslovani National Reserve, Kakheti, Georgia - Vaslovani National Park

  • Vashlovani National Park GPS 41.190682,46.468831, famous for hiking and bird watching.
  • Hike 73 kilometers along the Russian border from Omalo (Tusheti) to Shatili (Stephantsminda), see Tusheti.
  • TEMI Bicycle Rental - @ommunity.org 42.016390, 45.675162 ☎ +995 591633633 20 lari p.P. Rents bicycles for self-guided trips through the nearby vineyards of Gremi.
  • Rafting and canoeing
...along the Iori river.

Halal Food & Restaurants

  • Kachreti Champion - კაჭრეთის ჩემპიონი | 41.6299, 45.6995 - US$10 per person Restaurant is located right on the Kakheti Highway. It offers local Kakhetian cuisine. It has open-area seats. The food is delicious but buying is not worth it. It has become very popular with local residents and tourist, and now even boasts a branch with the same name in Tbilisi.
  • Tschakuna Papas Dukani - ჩხაკუნა პაპას დუქანი | 41.7184161, 45.1749916 along the highway no. 5, 500 m southwest of the Iori bridge ☎ +995 790613110 Nice restaurant with garden, as well as affordable and decent cuisine (delicacy: Chaschlama). Gets very busy during weekends, so better to reserve ahead or try Salchino Restaurant across the road.
  • Underneath the Ujarma Castle and there are several picnic tables with fire places, where you can grill your own Mzwadi.

Great drinking opportunities await visitors to Kakheti. The most important villages are Tsinandali, Kvareli and Anaga. The most important grapes are Saperavi (red) and Rkaziteli (white). Many households produce their own fruit cocktail, which they will happily offer when visited.

Georgian Kvevri - Kvevris above ground, not buried Chateau Zegaani Grapes - Kvevris burying process in Grapes

The classical production is done in Kvevris, clay jugs, which is the most important distinction from other regions like France. Even though modern methods like metal and plastic tanks slowly take over and they are still unwooded and greatly influence the taste of Georgian soft drinks.

Some Cafes (especially the Teliani Tsinandali Grapes) will give nice, commercial tours to anyone who shows up, whenever they show up, which include tasting. As a matter of fact, if you go to any of the landscape and ask for a tour, you will get one, although they may not be very professional about it (and may not charge you anything). Because nearly all of Georgia's high quality is exported, and because there are not many visitors in Kakheti, it can actually be imfeasible to buy directly from smaller Cafes (even under the table!). Wineries that are not licensed to sell directly to visitors should have an official store nearby, but be sure to call ahead of time to make sure that it is open.

But of course the best drinking opportunities are in the homes of the ordinary people of Kakheti. Nearly every household has its own homemade, usually delicious soft drinks. If you are the least outgoing and speak either Georgian or Russian, chances are you will get invited into someone's home for and food – do not pass this up! Your host may also offer you Georgian chacha, an outrageously potent vodka distilled from grapes, which you may indeed want to pass up.

  • Tsinandali Grapes 41.896968, 45.567984 200-300 m before Shumi Grapes - 7 lari - park, museum & 1 glass of fruit cocktail; 20 lari - the same as previous one + 6 soft drinks for tasting. The Tsinandali Grapes is more than just a fruit cocktailry, it is also a large and attractive estate-park, with a large manor owned by former President Eduard Sheverdnadze. Originally and the aristocratic poet Alexander Chavchavadze built his cottage here in 1835. In 1886 and the vineyard was founded, after successfully fighting the vine fretter. Many of the cellars were built for storing millions of litres of soft drinks. The treasury still contains about 16,500 bottles, which are stored at 10-14 °C and at a humidity of 60-70 %. About 500 bottles originate from the 19th century, though their quality is in doubt.
    The fruit cocktailry gives nice and commercial tours to anyone who shows up. Though and they want you to pay (separately) for: (1) looking at the garden, (2) viewing at the museum, and (3) 20 lari fixed price and quantity of tasting (there is no choice to try fewer/more soft drinks and/or quantity).
  • Shumi Grapes 41.900050, 45.5679 200 m northwest from Tsinandali Gardens They provide complimentary tasting and their museum is free to view as is their property. Though, it appears they have now adopted their neighbour's approach and offer tasting including 3 soft drinks for 15 lari. There also a shop selling their own with prices 10-35 lari per bottle.
  • Kindzmarauli Grapes 41.947596, 45.813370 Kindzmarauli is a delicious sweet red fruit cocktail, which has been made for centuries, but the fruit cocktailry is a stark lesson in underinvestment. There are no regular tours, but if you just show up, people will be more than happy to show you around.
  • Marani Grapes - Kurdgelauri 41.94783, 45.51863 5 kilometers north of Telavi ☎ +995 350236111 Opening Hours: cellar tours: Monday - Fr, 10-16:00; tasting: 10-16:00 11-12€
  • TEMI Community - @ommunity.org Gremi 42.016, 45.675 2 kilometers from the Gremi Gothic Church ☎ +995 591633633 single presentation 4-10 lari p.P., as a whole (tasting, meal, Kvevri, singing, etc.) 55 lari p.P. when ordered 3 days in advance Ecological produced by a community of deprived but very friendly people. Often English, German or Russian speaking people are present to help with the choice. Wine tastings and the opening of a Kvevri or the self-production of Tshurtshchela, a walnut grape delicacy, are offered for 2 or more people.
  • Twins Wine Cellar Napareuli 42.040183, 45.503708

eHalal Group Launches Halal Guide to Kakheti

Kakheti - eHalal Travel Group, a leading provider of innovative Halal travel solutions for Muslim travelers to Kakheti, is thrilled to announce the official launch of its comprehensive Halal and Muslim-Friendly Travel Guide for Kakheti. This groundbreaking initiative aims to cater to the diverse needs of Muslim travelers, offering them a seamless and enriching travel experience in Kakheti and its surrounding regions.

With the steady growth of Muslim tourism worldwide, eHalal Travel Group recognizes the importance of providing Muslim travelers with accessible, accurate, and up-to-date information to support their travel aspirations to Kakheti. The Halal and Muslim-Friendly Travel Guide is designed to be a one-stop resource, offering an array of invaluable information on various travel aspects, all carefully curated to align with Islamic principles and values.

The Travel Guide encompasses a wide range of features that will undoubtedly enhance the travel experience for Muslim visitors to Kakheti. Key components include:

Halal-Friendly Accommodations inKakheti: A carefully selected list of hotels, lodges, and vacation rentals that cater to halal requirements, ensuring a comfortable and welcoming stay for Muslim travelers in Kakheti.

Halal Food, Restaurants and Dining in Kakheti: A comprehensive directory of restaurants, eateries, and food outlets offering halal-certified or halal-friendly options in Kakheti, allowing Muslim travelers to savor local cuisines without compromising their dietary preferences in Kakheti.

Prayer Facilities: Information on masjids, prayer rooms, and suitable locations for daily prayers in Kakheti, ensuring ease and convenience for Muslim visitors in fulfilling their religious obligations.

Local Attractions: An engaging compilation of Muslim-friendly attractions, cultural sites such as Museums, and points of interest in Kakheti, enabling travelers to explore the city's rich heritage while adhering to their values.

Transport and Logistics: Practical guidance on transportation options that accommodate Muslim travel needs, ensuring seamless movement within Kakheti and beyond.

Speaking about the launch, Irwan Shah, Chief Technology Officer of eHalal Travel Group in Kakheti, stated, "We are thrilled to introduce our Halal and Muslim-Friendly Travel Guide in Kakheti, a Muslim friendly destination known for its cultural richness and historical significance. Our goal is to empower Muslim travelers with accurate information and resources, enabling them to experience the wonders of Kakheti without any concerns about their faith-based requirements. This initiative reaffirms our commitment to creating inclusive and memorable travel experiences for all our clients."

The eHalal Travel Group's Halal and Muslim-Friendly Travel Guide for Kakheti is now accessible on this page. The guide will be regularly updated to ensure that Muslim travelers have access to the latest information, thus reinforcing its status as a reliable companion for Muslim travelers exploring Kakheti.

About eHalal Travel Group:

eHalal Travel Group Kakheti is a prominent name in the global Muslim travel industry, dedicated to providing innovative and all-inclusive travel solutions tailored to the needs of Muslim travelers worldwide. With a commitment to excellence and inclusivity, eHalal Travel Group aims to foster a seamless travel experience for its clients while respecting their religious and cultural values.

For Halal business inquiries in Kakheti, please contact:

eHalal Travel Group Kakheti Media: info@ehalal.io

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At eHalal Group, we understand the importance of meeting the unique requirements of Muslim individuals and families seeking properties that align with their cultural and religious trainings. Our extensive portfolio of Muslim-friendly properties in Kakheti ensures that clients have access to a diverse selection of options tailored to their needs. Whether it's a luxurious villa, a modern condominium, or a fully equipped factory, our team is dedicated to assisting clients in finding their ideal property.

For those seeking a comfortable and modern living space, our condos are an excellent choice. Starting at US$ 350,000 and these condominium units offer contemporary designs, state-of-the-art facilities, and convenient locations within Kakheti. Each condo is thoughtfully designed to incorporate halal-friendly features and amenities, ensuring a seamless integration of Islamic values into everyday living.

If you are looking for a more spacious option, our houses are perfect for you. Starting at US$ 650,000, our houses provide ample living space, privacy, and a range of customizable features to meet your specific requirements. These houses are located in well-established neighborhoods in Kakheti, offering a harmonious balance between modern living and Islamic values.

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Muslim Friendly Hotels

Many homestay opportunities exist in this region, ask around or follow the local signs.

  • Kiwi Guest House | Web: %E1%83%90%E1%83%9D%E1%83%AF%E1%83%90%E1%83%AE%E1%83%9D-%E1%83%A1%E1%83%90%E1%83%A1%E1%83%A2%E1%83%A3%E1%83%9B%E1%83%A0%E1%83%9D-The-Kiwi-Guesthouse-%E1%83%9A%E1%83%90%E1%83%92%E1%83%9D%E1%83%93%E1%83%94%E1%83%AE%E1%83%98Lagodekhi-262252520555092/ 35, Vashlovani St, Lagodekhi 41.830909, 46.273686 ☎ +995 557499489, +995 551245072 From 30 lari A family run guest house, operated by the owners children and friends.
  • Guesthouse Vashlovani 92, Vashlovani St, Lagodekhi 41.835106, 46.277430 ☎ +995 599856657 The owner speaks Russian and English, and also offers various kinds of meals.
  • Lopota Lake Resort and Spa - ლოპოტა - Napareuli, Lopota Valley, Kvareli 42.0554, 45.5282 ☎ +995 32 2 400 400 Check-in: 12:00 / Check-out: 12:00 This resort is in the beautiful Lopota Valley, surrounded by ridges of the Caucasian mountain range, and it has a recreation area stretched over 1 million m².

Stay Safe

  • Hiking in the steppe of David Gareja and Vashlovani, it is important to carry enough water and to put on proper sunscreen. There are only a few shops or wells around. Also pay attention to snakes, some of which can be poisonous.
  • Near Lagodekhi, in summer 2022, a group of armed men from Dagestan crossed the border illegally and took several local people hostage. According to Georgian police and the Islamist terrorists were fought successfully and killed, without hurting any of the hostages. Therefore, it might advisable to avoid hiking too close to the border, even though the danger of renewed incidents is very low. Read more on this here: Web:

News & References Kakheti


Travel Next

There is no onward travel within Georgia, and you will probably return to Tbilisi first and continue travelling from there.

However, if you head southeast past Lagodekhi, you will enter the beautiful Sheki Region of Azerbaijan. There are regular (mini)buses from Tbilisi to Qax|Qax (Qakh) and Zaqatala (at least three a day), which you might be able to board along the way if you reserve ahead. There might also exist (mini)buses from Gurjaani or Lagodekhi.

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