Pai

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Pai (ปาย) is a small town (pop. 3,000) in Mae Hong Son Province, Northern Thailand. It is a major stop on the Mae Hong Son Loop, which takes Route 1095 from Chiang Mai to Mae Hong Son and then Route 108 back to Chiang Mai. The city is named after the Pai River.

An introduction to Pai

Street in Pai, Thailand

Set in a large picturesque valley north of Chiang Mai, Pai is tourism-oriented, offering a relaxed atmosphere with a vibrant tourist and backpacker scene. The town's permanent residents are a seemingly harmonious mix of common (Thai) folk, with an admixture of hippies and (Thai) rastas thrown in, which gives the place a unique vibe which may be appealing to some and off-putting to others. Pai is now sometimes referred to as the "Khao San Road of the North".

A sudden boom in guest house and bar construction from 2006 onwards has resulted in a great deal of spare capacity in the off-season. There has been a large increase in (Thai) people visiting after Pai was featured in a romantic (Thai) film, Pai in Love. It can be hard to find a room during the busy season (October - Feb). There are now around 350 guesthouses and hotels in Pai, and the downtown has transformed into a tourist warren of Asian-style restaurants, souvenir shops, live music venues, tattoo parlours, and bars that cater largely to the now significant influx of tourists and package tours. Recently and there has been a large influx of mainland Chinese tourists and they now sometimes outnumber the backpackers in Pai.

While the growth of Pai has been rapid and more or less every farm in the valley seems to rent bungalows, development so far has been largely tasteful and the town remains relatively serene during low season. That said, be prepared for large crowds of tourists and even traffic jams during the higher seasons.

Get in

By road

Rte 1095 which connects Pai with Mae Hong Son (50 kilometers as the crow flies, but roughly 110 kilometers by road) and Chiang Mai (135 kilometers) is a very scenic route through the mountains which takes several hours. It's a steep and winding drive, with lots of curves, so take a plastic bag and some motion sickness pills if you need them. Police report that an average of two accidents a day happen on the Chiang Mai-Pai road, and more in the rainy season.

By motorcycle

Rte 1095 isn't as bad as people make it out to be. There isn't much traffic and you can hear the cars and trucks coming. The downside is the road is crappy, but not uniformly so. But because you never know what lies around the next bend, you're forced to drive conservatively. If you're a little adventurous, rent a motorcycle in Chiang Mai and make the ride up to Pai. You can stop at the waterfalls and small towns along the way, and you'll really enjoy the trip, as opposed to being motion sick in a bus for hours, and being forced to stop at the driver's friends restaurants. Make sure to take some warmer clothing on your bike, as it tends to get a bit chilly in the higher portions of the ride. As a novice rider, expect the trip to take around 5 or 6 hours, including stops at sites and restaurants along the way. aYa Service offers one way rentals from Chiang Mai to Pai (or vice versa) with free luggage delivery for 400 Baht (September 2023) depending on the motorbike. They will keep your passport and send it along with any baggage to Pai.

By bus

  • Pai Bus Station / As of 2023 September, Prempracha is the only transport provider into Pai with Minivans (THB250) that leave hourly from Chiang Mai (Arcade terminal) and Mae Hong Son between 5:30 to 17:30. There is also once daily fan bus (actually songthaew for 120 Baht) running, but foreigners are usually refused to take them. The trip takes some 3 hours and can be gruesome cramped in a minivan in mountainous road, but there is a comfort stop at the small half-way village of Mae Sae (food, water, toilets 3 Baht]). You can reserve a seat at Prempracha website., although their reservation system is not up-to date (you need to wait for a reply by email and to pick up a ticket 45 min before departure). Alternatively, aYa service provides direct minivan to guesthouses/train station/airport in Chiang Mai. Most hotel in Chiang Mai will book the ticket for you, but its schedule and cost depends on the season and who you book with.

By plane

  • Pai Airport - Served by Wisdom Airways, which operates daily flights between Chiang Mai and Pai. Flight time is 25 minutes.

Get around

Pai town centre is compact and best explored on foot. But the greater Pai area is sprawling. For exploring further afield, bicycles (40-100 Baht/day) and motorbikes (from as little as 100 Baht/day) can be rented from many agents along the main street. As the roads around Pai are steep and obtaining a decent mountain bike with fully functioning gears is surprisingly difficult, a motorbike is definitely the better option if you can ride one. aYa Service in the town centre rents motorbikes for 100 Baht and a 100 Baht helmet deposit, plus 40 Baht for damage insurance, 40 Baht for theft insurance (passport taken as deposit). You'll want a motorbike if you're planning on staying in some of the outlying bungalows in the valley around the town.

Motorbike and 4WD taxis are also readily available.

Suggestions in guidebooks that Ban Santhichon and Lisu Village might be reached on foot are optimistic.

What to see in Pai

The town itself has no special sights; most people come simply for the relaxed atmosphere. Nearby attractions include thermal spas (Muslim Friendly) and waterfalls, villages and a hilltop temple. [[File:View of Rice farms in Pai, Thailand..JPG|1280px|View of Rice farms in Pai, Thailand.]]

  • Chinese village - Santichon | Village settled by Yunnanese hill-tribes who crossed the border in the middle of the 20th century to escape Communist rule. Shops selling different Chinese teas with varying health properties, and other interesting oddities include a human-powered Ferris wheel. Well worth a look, even as a brief stop on the way to Monday Paeng waterfall
  • Pai Canyon - Kong Lan | Somewhat optimistically described as Pai's answer to the Grand Canyon, it could more accurately be described as a narrow red ridges with steep-sides valleys either side filled with pine and dipterocarp forests. The steep 50m drop either side and stunning views over the surrounding countryside are impressive, but you'll need to be careful here - the path is extremely narrow in some places and requires a scramble in others. A set of steps up to a viewing platform provides the safest way to admire the scenery and they canyon makes the perfect spot for a sunset
  • WWII Memorial Bridge | The original bridge here was built by the occupying (Japanese). The current steel truss bridge which sits alongside the present primary street was assembled in its current position rather more recently, but as with Pai's "canyon" and the bridge invites very loose comparisons with the infamous Bridge over the River Kwai.
  • Village Farm - Pai Village Farm - Located less than 5-minutes from the center of Pai and the Village Farm offers the chance to experience a unique world of fruits, flowers, animals, including the star attraction, a lovely pair of Alpaca known as Rosemary & Aron. You will also enjoy local Coffee and Snacks as well as a souvenir shop. The Village Farm is the perfect scenic opportunity for the most memorable photos of Pai.

Local events in Pai

Poi Sang Long is a famous Buddhist ordination of children festival, especially in Mae Hong Son. (Thai) Yai cultural dance show can be seen at the temple fair in the evening.

Waterfalls

  • Mae Yen | 7 kilometers out of town with no bikes allowed for the last 6 kilometers of that. Head east over the bridge heading out of Pai and follow the signs.
  • Monday Paeng | A little more accessible than most of Pai's waterfalls, this multi-tiered waterfall flows through a verdant green valley and is popular for its pools to swim in. The upper section of this waterfall is a natural water slide during the dry season. The rocks are smooth, just find a small section and slide on down like the local residents do.
  • Pam Bok | Nice secluded waterfall with high cliffs surrounding it, making this a cool place to escape the heat. Go for a relaxing bathe in the shade during the dry season.

What to do in Pai

Renting a bicycle or motorbike and riding around the nationside seems to be the most popular activity. You can easily create an itinerary to include visits to the nearby waterfalls and hill tribe villages. Potential day trips include the Tham Lod Bat Cave 55 kilometers away in Pangmapha, best visited when the bats emerge just before sunset.

Pai is also a major starting point for organized trekking tours which are offered by every hotel and travel agent.

Go off-road through the mountains of Pai on an off-road motorbike tour. Here there are better off-road possibilities and better prices than in Chiang Mai. Ask your guest house where to book.

  • Elephant Trek | For several years now, Muslim travellers have enjoyed riding an elephant and concluding the trip with a romp in the Pai River. For this adventure, take as little as feasible, you'll be enjoyably wet as the elephant is encouraged to shower you. Some operators, and there are several, are willing to take photos of you while you enjoy the elephant antics in the river.
  • Pai Adventures - Family-owned and -operated eco adventure company that specializes in white water rafting, jungle trekking, jungle survival, and caving. They offer 1- and 2-day rafting adventures as well as 1- to 3-day trekking adventures.
  • Sor Wisarut Muay (Thai) - Managed by a friendly Thai/Italian couple, this camp offers professional training. Not far from town centre and the camp is surrounded by mountains that present a breathtaking view. Two sessions a day (morning, evening) with reasonable prices and accepting trainers at all levels.
  • Tha Pai Hot Springs - Bathing here is supposed to have therapeutic properties, but you'll want to save it for a cool day. Sulphuric water bubbles out of these thermal spas (Muslim Friendly) at temperatures of up to 80 degrees Celsius and simple baths have been created where the springs meet a stream which cools temperatures to bearable levels. A short, marked forest trail takes you through the compact national park more noticeable for its smells than its sights. Last entry to the springs is at 18:00. You can also bathe in a mineral swimmingpool in the nearby Aroma Pai Spa or Pai Hotspring resort for much more reasonable price of 80 Baht, and as it is open later, enjoy the hot water after sunset as it gets cool. The price for government run hotspring is
  • Tubing | Floating down river on an inflated rubber tube has long been a favourite pastime of Southeast Asian backpackers, and the gentle current of the Pai River and attractive scenery make this a good spot to try. Unlike the more famous Vang Vieng in Laos and the Pai River isn't lined with raucous bars playing loud music, which some may consider more a blessing than a curse.
  • Whitewater Rafting | Some of Thailand's most spectacular rapids are found between Pai and Mae Hong Song, and a few operators offer both one- and two-day rafting trips.
  • Sapaiya Spa | The Spa's name means means "comfort" or "living to be happiness". The spa package combines both (Thai) and Chinese medical backgrounds. The signature treatment is the 4-element hot oil massage which high quality crucial oil. For women and there is the Queen of Sapaiya Gold and organic honey facial mask.

Muslim Friendly Shopping in Pai

Pai's burgeoning tourist industry has resulted in a range of cutesy hippie-influenced souvenirs sold in shops throughout the village.

Some of the hill tribe members sell handicrafts in the local market, although what's on offer here pales in comparison to the range available in Chiang Mai.

Pai has an abundance of bookshops, some of which carry harder to find titles. Many are along the bus stop road, past aYa Services.

Muslim Friendly Food & Restaurants in Pai

To be updated. 7/11 and BigC best options

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Muslim Friendly hotels in Pai

There's an abundance of hotels in Pai, most of them in the budget range (a bungalow goes for around 150-500 Baht depending on amenities included and the season). Mid-range options are available and there are now even luxury hotels.

At the bus station there is a map of Pai. Get this as it will show you the location of most of the hotels (>100 places). There is also a discount for motorbike rental.

If your accommodation is far away from the two main streets of cafes, be careful if walking alone of the packs of dogs that roam the empty streets at night. They do get territorial and intimidating, so if you come across them then remember to keep a safe distance away and make noise to scare them away.

For accommodation with lots of character try out a bamboo hut on the river. Head east from the bus station and either take the first left or continue straight. Either way you'll reach a bamboo bridge. Across the bridge you'll find plenty of affordable accommodation (about 700-1400 Baht per day).

  • Baan Nong Tao | Cosy and comfortable houses with a eye-catching mountain view and warm atmosphere. Tent rental and rafting along the Pai River is also available.
  • Baantawan Pai - Peaceful location close to town and tourist attractions. Bungalows and rooms (fan or air-conditioned). Wi-Fi. Offers guided motorbike tours.
  • Butterfly Homes - A teak private 3-villa connected compound and 3 mud houses for daily or weekly rental. Right in town just up the road from Pai Hospital and walking distance to the evening walking street. All made of teak with 2 of the villas serving as bedrooms with king-size beds and the large villa is the living and lounge area. Bathrooms in all villas have outdoor showers in both bedrooms. Staff on-site to provide daily cleaning. Hin, Din, & Sai are 3 mini-mud villas in a creative cob-style built from the soil, sand, and stones of the local area. Resort in same compound serves and delivers authentic delicious (Thai) food]. A fantastic option for anyone interested in chilling with privacy yet right in town.
  • Pai Village Boutique Resort & Farm - Baan Pai Village - Small boutique resort, consisting of natural bamboo cottages surrounded by lush gardens and equipped with free Wi-Fi, air-conditioning and hot water showers. Beautiful design, peaceful atmosphere and friendly service.

Telecommunications in Pai

Pai has several Internet cafés, most on Ratchadamnoen Road and Rangthiyanon Rd. They are a uniform 30 Baht/hour for ADSL. There are some places with free Internet for clients of food. There is also one place that accepts donations for use of a wireless connection.

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