Tana Toraja

Tana Toraja, literally "Torajaland", is a highland region of Southern Sulawesi in Indonesia.

Tana Toraja and the famed "Land of The Heavenly Kings", lies about 328 kilometers north of Makassar and the capital of South Sulawesi Province, in the central highlands of South Sulawesi.

Towns

Makale
Rantepao

Tana Toraja Halal Travel Guide

Culture & Tradition of Tana Toraja

The land of the Toraja people, many notionally Christian but most in training animist, is above all famed for their spectacular (and rather gruesome) burial rites. After a person's death and the body is kept — often for several months or even years — while money is saved to pay for the actual funeral ceremony, known as tomate. During the festival, which may last up to a week, ritual dances and buffalo fights are held, and buffaloes and pigs are slaughtered to ferry the soul of the deceased to the afterlife (puya). The deceased is then finally buried either in a small cave, often with a tau-tau effigy placed in front, inside a hollow tree or even left exposed to the elements in a bamboo frame hanging from a cliff.

Tana Toraja has unique culture set in stunning scenery. Globalisation and tourism may have impact, but if you venture away from the tarmac roads you will find soon a way of life that may seem to a visitor as if it has not changed much in the last 100 years.

Traditional Tongkonan houses stand proudly in this setting. These intricately decorated houses with upward-sloping roofs are the centre of all Aluktodolo (Torajan religion before the coming of missionaries; the ancestors' belief) rites; from storing the harvest in the carved Rice barns, "alang", to slaughtering sacred water buffaloes at funeral ceremonies that last a week or longer. Tana Toraja's beauty is also reflected in its people. Although they are mostly devoutly Christian (there is a small number of Muslims especially in the southern area) and they combine this religious belief with magic and mysticism, and welcome visitors to witness their ceremonies.

Tana Toraja is a sleepy rural region cultivating Rice, cacao, Coffee, and cloves most of the year. Toraja's arabica coffee carries a high reputation and is something that visitors may be interested in trying. During the dry season, from June until September, when children are home from school and the Rice is harvested and it's time for a "rambu solo'", a complex funeral ceremony of the ancestors. During the time, Rantepao is transformed into a major tourist attraction for national and international visitors. Nevertheless and the region remains far less touristy than many other tourist spots in Indonesia (such as many places in Java or Bali), perhaps due to the relatively long way to come until there (which includes at least 10 hours of transportation from Makassar).

Terrain

At 300 to 2,880 metres above sea level, Tana Toraja combines tropical lushness with alpine freshness, with daily temperatures between 16 and 28 degrees Celsius.

Bright green Rice terraces, tall limestone outcrops and bamboo graves are set against a backdrop of blue misty mountains.

Time

Toraja is in the UTC+8 time zone (known in Indonesia as WITA, Waktu Indonesia Tengah), same as Western Australia, Kuala Lumpur, Singapore, Hong Kong, mainland China, Bali but one hour ahead of Jakarta.

When to go

Prime funeral season is after the harvest in July to October.

Travel to Tana Toraja

Buy a Flight ticket to and from Tana Toraja

From the Hasanuddin Airport in Makassar, one can fly to Pongtiku Airport with a 900-metre runway in Tana Toraja. The name of the airline is SMAC (Sabang Merauke Air Charter). The flights are once a week on Mondays. The flight takes about 55 minutes and uses CASSA type airplanes. Be warned though that it is feasible the flight could be cancelled last minutes due to aircraft maintenance or insufficient passengers.

Government has finished a new Buntukunik Airport with a 1,900-meter runway in Tana Toraja, and in February to April 2017 in the process of technical trial operation, it will be opened soon to accommodate ATR 72.

Pongtiku Airport

Travel on a Bus in Tana Toraja

Tana Toraja is a solid 300-km, 8-to-10-hour drive from Makassar with various stops between the route to take some rest. Most companies run both a morning and an overnight bus, with various degrees of comfort. Frequent mikrolets/bemos leave from Makassar to the Daya Bus Terminal and take about 40 minutes.

The buses from Makassar to Tana Toraja come with various levels of comfort. Routes going further north are generally slower, in poor condition and far less comfortable. The most expensive are luxury class buses with sleepers, relatively clean and comfortable.

Generally, most regular commuters between Makassar and Tana Toraja understand the importance of riding new buses with better engines. Hence the ticket prices differ not only based on the classes but also on the engines as well. Better engine means the price will be more expensive.

Famous companies that provide more comfort include:

Departure point of most buses

Bintang Prima - 185,000 Rp (as of 2022), departure daily 21h30 from Makassar, and 21h30 from Rantepao, arrival around 6-7am in both directions. The most expensive buses (Scania) are not very clean but offer almost a bed (including blanket and pillow, though probably not washed often). No Wi-Fi, no electricity, no toilet. The bus stops often near Makassar and near Rantepao, but none in between, so make sure you have water and food (and no need to use any toilet).

Kharisma - Advertises for free Wi-Fi.

Litha & co - 200,000 Rp (as of 2022), departure daily 20h30 from Rantepao (arrival 5am in Makassar). Very modern (and fairly comfortable) buses. However note that the air-con temperature is incredibly low; boarding the bus in Rantepao (with an outside temperature of 18-19°) will make you feel like entering a fridge. Be sure to bring tons of warm clothes. No Wi-Fi, no electricity, no toilet.

Putra Jaya - Their recent units have 3 classes. VIP Class with electric and massage seats, executive class with reclining seats and leg rests, and sleeping cabin with bed facilities and amenities, plus tap card to gain access to the cabin for added convenience and security.

By taxi or charted vehicle

A chartered vehicle usually costs about 850,000 - 1,200,000 Rupiah one-way from Makassar. It is feasible to find one for a few hundred thousand less if you can coordinate with someone who is driving in that direction. If you plan on staying for a few days and would like the return trip as well, a driver with vehicle should cost about 550,000 Rupiah per day.

Please beware that if you are planning to drive your own vehicle and the stretch of road from Makassar, starting from Maros neighborhood area up to the town of Pare Pare is currently undergoing a road widening works. You may have to suddenly switch onto the opposite lane, because the lane you are on is blocked for the construction work. Be very careful and watch out for this kind of roadblock, because road signs indicating this is virtually non existent. This problem is made incredibly worse during night time by the absence of proper street light, so exercise extreme caution.

The road from the town of Enrekang to Makele (the town before Rantepao) is a stretch of unlit, small, winding, uphill road, accompanied with some fogging and drizzle at night. Along this road, you will frequently come across big buses going downhill from Makele. Gas station is few and far between, with intermittent local shops along the way. Again and these conditions make night time self driving best avoided.

How to get around in Tana Toraja

The best way to go around is by motorbike (about 80,000Rp per day, as of 2022). This said, using public transportation is feasible for most sites too.

Most of the spots can be visited without a guide (despite what your hotel will try to make you believe), though a guide may be useful for some of the more distant villages.

Bemo/mikrolet rides run from 2,000Rp for short rides of a few kilometers up to 10,000 Rp.

The Bolu bus terminal is a good way to find public transportation, especially towards the North of Rantepao. To get from Rantepao, flag down any bemo (5000 Rp).

Bolu bus Terminal - 2km north east from Rantepao

What to see in Tana Toraja

Toraja tumbs - Tombs in Tana Toraja

Although it can be expensive if you are on a budget, a guide can provide a lot of insight into the local trainings and customs. A problem is that most guides are not certified, and will not explain more to you than the Wikipedia page on Tana Toraja.

If you still want to hire a guide and the usual base price for one day is 375,000Rp (as of 2022), plus the motorbike (about 80,000Rp) if you don't drive yourself. Of course the prices quoted first may be much higher. A price of 400,000Rp for one day and one person that doesn't drive (and hence that will share the guide motorbike) is considered as a reasonably good price, as of 2022. If more than one person and the price shouldn't vary much, although you may need a longer time to bargain!

Of course, guides will try to make you believe that you should pay a lot of extras (lunch, tax, etc.), but it is a grift. A famous scam is to make you believe you will eat in a good restaurant (for which you had to pay in advance), and then change the schedule at the last minutes to go immediately to the funeral (and hence skip the restaurant, which probably doesn't even exist).

It is feasible to visit most of the famous sites and funerals on your own, although information can be hard to find from most hotel operators, as they will put a lot of pressure on you to hire a driver or a guide.

Bolu Buffalo Market - Pasar Bolu | Opening Hours: Every Tuesday and Saturday (morning)

Bori Parinding - The site of Bori Parinding is a combination of ceremonial grounds and burials. The ceremonial ground is an open space used for traditional ceremonies, including rituals for the dead and thanksgiving.

Buntu Pune - Formerly and the sites of Buntu Pune and Rante Karassik belonged to one integrated settlement.
Rante Karassik - The site of Rante Karassik is a ceremonial ground on a sloping hill.

Deri - Several tombs in full nature (in particular a particularly impressive forest of giant bamboos). The site is much less interesting than other equivalent ones in Tana Toraja, but the road reaching Deri is very scenic, with many villages as beautiful as Kete Kesu but without any tourist (nor entrance fee) here.

Kande Api - The site of Kande Api consists of a compound of houses and granaries, ceremonial ground and burial places.

Ke'te Kesu' - Among the nominated sites, Ke'te' Kesu' is the most complete settlement. The site consists of a compound of houses and granaries, burial place, ceremonial ground, ricefields and water-buffalo pasture.

Lemo - Lemo is also a cliff burial site with galleries of ancestor statues. One of the most interesting (and visited) sites.

Londa - Londa is a grave site where two methods of burial are customary. One of the most interesting (and visited) sites.

Nanggala - Nanggala site is principally a compound of 2 houses (tongkonan) and 16 granaries (alang), arranged in rows and aligned east-west.

Pala' Toke' - The site of Pala Toke is principally a burial place located on a towering limestone hill, from where a Rice field extends to the north, east and west.

Pallawa - Pallawa site is also a compound of houses and granaries. In total there are 11 houses and 15 granaries.

Tumakke - The site of Tumakke displays a distinctive traditional house built on a raised terrace.

Halal Tours and Excursions in Tana Toraja

There are many walks (1-3 hours) that pass by many different types of grave sites, including the most popular sites. Most can be visited by short bemo rides from Rantepao and do not require guides.

What to do in Tana Toraja

Attend a funeral

LUTA Resort Hotel , Tedong Bonga on Sa'dan River - panoramio - Tedong Bonga or Buffalo with Flower Spots, Buffalo with the most magnificent flower spots can be valued $75,000 each, need for Meat at funeral ceremony

If you come to Tana Toraja during the funeral season (peak is in July and August), attending a funeral is certainly a must-do. Funerals (entrance fee 20,000 Rupiah) are public events and served by public transport. Avoid offers by guides, telling you that they are private or difficult to access!

Your hotel probably will not help you to locate the funeral, claiming it is hard to find by yourself (it is not). In summer, (fake) guides might tell you that you are a lucky person because there is a funeral exactly the day you came. In fact, during the funeral season (July and August) and there are funerals virtually every day except perhaps Sunday.

To go to a funeral, simply spot the pick-ups loaded with people with (more or less) black clothes, that go throughout Rantepao all day long. Just flag one down, and they will certainly be happy to have you on board.

The custom is to bring a present for the family of the deceased; most guides will tell you to bring (several packets of) cigarettes, but tea or Candies for children can also do.

There is no official tourist information in Tana Toraja, but you may go to Tora Tora Primitive Art Gallery, which has a very friendly English-speaking owner who provides free maps of the area. It is on the main street in Rantepao. Beware of every offer that may look suspicious, though.

Halal Restaurants in Tana Toraja

Restaurants

There are some Halal restaurants in Rantepao and Makale. They serve menus of (Indonesian).

See the Rantepao page for restaurants in Rantepao. Some restaurants in Makale or along the road between Rantepao and Makale:

Wae Rumbang, Main Road to Makale, Pao Rura
Idaman Restaurant, 28 Merdeka St. , Makale
Rama, Main Road Makale - Rantepao
Flamboyan, Main Road Makale - Rantepao
Sallebayu, Ke'te kesu' st.
Damai, Main Road Makale - Mengkendek, Makale

Coffee

The Tana Toraja region is famed for its Coffee. In your local coffee house it will cost a small fortune. Drink the real thing here for a fraction of the cost. There are many places to drink coffee (see the Rantepao listings).

eHalal Group Launches Halal Guide to Tana Toraja

Tana Toraja - eHalal Travel Group, a leading provider of innovative Halal travel solutions for Muslim travelers to Tana Toraja, is thrilled to announce the official launch of its comprehensive Halal and Muslim-Friendly Travel Guide for Tana Toraja. This groundbreaking initiative aims to cater to the diverse needs of Muslim travelers, offering them a seamless and enriching travel experience in Tana Toraja and its surrounding regions.

With the steady growth of Muslim tourism worldwide, eHalal Travel Group recognizes the importance of providing Muslim travelers with accessible, accurate, and up-to-date information to support their travel aspirations to Tana Toraja. The Halal and Muslim-Friendly Travel Guide is designed to be a one-stop resource, offering an array of invaluable information on various travel aspects, all carefully curated to align with Islamic principles and values.

The Travel Guide encompasses a wide range of features that will undoubtedly enhance the travel experience for Muslim visitors to Tana Toraja. Key components include:

Halal-Friendly Accommodations inTana Toraja: A carefully selected list of hotels, lodges, and vacation rentals that cater to halal requirements, ensuring a comfortable and welcoming stay for Muslim travelers in Tana Toraja.

Halal Food, Restaurants and Dining in Tana Toraja: A comprehensive directory of restaurants, eateries, and food outlets offering halal-certified or halal-friendly options in Tana Toraja, allowing Muslim travelers to savor local cuisines without compromising their dietary preferences in Tana Toraja.

Prayer Facilities: Information on masjids, prayer rooms, and suitable locations for daily prayers in Tana Toraja, ensuring ease and convenience for Muslim visitors in fulfilling their religious obligations.

Local Attractions: An engaging compilation of Muslim-friendly attractions, cultural sites such as Museums, and points of interest in Tana Toraja, enabling travelers to explore the city's rich heritage while adhering to their values.

Transport and Logistics: Practical guidance on transportation options that accommodate Muslim travel needs, ensuring seamless movement within Tana Toraja and beyond.

Speaking about the launch, Irwan Shah, Chief Technology Officer of eHalal Travel Group in Tana Toraja, stated, "We are thrilled to introduce our Halal and Muslim-Friendly Travel Guide in Tana Toraja, a Muslim friendly destination known for its cultural richness and historical significance. Our goal is to empower Muslim travelers with accurate information and resources, enabling them to experience the wonders of Tana Toraja without any concerns about their faith-based requirements. This initiative reaffirms our commitment to creating inclusive and memorable travel experiences for all our clients."

The eHalal Travel Group's Halal and Muslim-Friendly Travel Guide for Tana Toraja is now accessible on this page. The guide will be regularly updated to ensure that Muslim travelers have access to the latest information, thus reinforcing its status as a reliable companion for Muslim travelers exploring Tana Toraja.

About eHalal Travel Group:

eHalal Travel Group Tana Toraja is a prominent name in the global Muslim travel industry, dedicated to providing innovative and all-inclusive travel solutions tailored to the needs of Muslim travelers worldwide. With a commitment to excellence and inclusivity, eHalal Travel Group aims to foster a seamless travel experience for its clients while respecting their religious and cultural values.

For Halal business inquiries in Tana Toraja, please contact:

eHalal Travel Group Tana Toraja Media: info@ehalal.io

Muslim Friendly Hotels

Besides Makassar, Tana Toraja is the only area in the Province of South Sulawesi which owns several star hotels. Some widely known star hotels in Tana Toraja are Toraja Heritage Hotel, Toraja Misiliana Hotel, Toraja Prince Hotel and Toraja Sahid Hotel and Tongkonan Layuk Lion.

Toraja Misiliana Hotel

There are also a number of non-star hotels, home-stays and local residences available for accommodation.

Most of the hotels provide standard facilities such as single and double bed, hot and cold water, telephone line, entertainment, meals while some provide additional ones like sports facility, spa and massage, laundry and others.

Stay Safe

How is the Climate in Tana Toraja

Do not get fooled by the relatively more comfortable temperatures than in Makassar (the temperature hardly goes above 28°, and nights tend to be cool): the sun is challenging here, and you will use a lot of sun screen. Also bring a pullover for outdoor evenings or nights.

It often rains in Tana Toraja, even during the "dry season", and much more than, e.g., in Makassar. As a rule of 1280px, it tends to rain more often in the afternoon or evening than in the morning.

Malaria

There is a low risk of malaria in Tana Toraja. Contact your favorite tropical doctor before departure to decide whether you need a treatment. In any case, try to avoid mosquito bites, as the region is also infected by dengue.

Rabies

Avoid contact with dogs and other animals that may carry rabies.

Pollution

The air quality along the primary street of Rantepao (along which most touristic facilities are located) is extremely bad, and bringing an N95 mask may be of great help.

Telecommunications in Tana Toraja

International phone operators: 101. International Direct Dialing prefix: 001, 007, or 008.

Directory inquires

108 (if using a cell phone locally dial 0423 108)

Internet Cafe's in Tana Toraja

The 4G connection is overall bad (and often non-existing) in Tana Toraja. Only parts of Rantepao have 4G and the rest only getting a slow edge network. Most tourist sites (Lemo, Londa...) won't be connected to any Internet network, and sometimes not even to any phone network.

Emergency

Ambulance: 118.
Police stations:
Polres Tana Toraja,Jl. Bhayangkara, Makale. ☎ 0423-22100
Polsek Rantepao, Jl. Budi Utomo, Rantepao. ☎ 0423-21358
Army Headquarter:
Kodim 1414 Tana Toraja, Jl. Pong Tiku, Rantepao. ☎ 0423-21255

Hospitals:

Lakipadada Hospital,Jl. Poros Makale - Rantepao. ☎ 0423-22118,22023,22264
Fatimah Hospital, Jl. Nusantara. ☎ 0423-22058
Elim Hospital, Jl.Jend. Ahmad Yani. ☎ 423-21258
Marampa' Childbirth Hospital, Jl. A.Mappanyukki. ☎ 0423-21036

The hospital is fairly serviceable by developing world standards, however, for serious problems you should return to Makassar. For more serious problems, head immediately to Singapore or Australia.

News & References Tana Toraja