West Bank

The West Bank is an area located between in the Middle East between Occupied Palestine and Jordan, to the north of the Dead Sea (Occupied Palestine). It forms the larger half of the semi-autonomous Palestinian Territories and the smaller being the Gaza Strip. De facto control on the ground tends to be Israeli, Palestinian (Fatah since the Hamas takeover of Gaza). Be prepared for that to affect your travels and to come upon checkpoints and signs barring Israeli settler citizens from entering certain areas.

Cities

In each group, cities are listed from north to south:

Mixed

• Hebron GPS 31.52466,35.11100 - In the southern West Bank, a holy city due to the presence of the Cave of the Patriarchs. There is a large Palestinian majority, with a few hundred Yahudi living in the downtown, and a few thousand more in the suburb/settlement of Kiryat Arba.

Palestinian

• Jenin GPS 32.4587,35.2992 (جنين) – the West Bank's northernmost city, only 26km from Nazareth. Its name's meaning is The spring of gardens.
• Tulkarm GPS 32.31261,35.02830 (طولكرم)
• Nablus GPS 32.21888,35.26546 (نابل) – considered the commercial capital of the West Bank, and known for its old city, its furniture trade and the delicious kunafa/kenafeh
• Qalqilyah GPS 32.18826,34.97020
• Ramallah GPS 31.90421,35.20425 – the administrative capital of the West Bank and temporary host to the PNA, Ramallah is a magnet for Palestinians seeking work as well as foreign activists
• Jericho GPS 31.86333,35.45737 – the "Oldest City in the World", around 400m below sea level and great starting point for the Dead Sea
• Bethlehem GPS 31.70880,35.20031 – an ancient city much like many others in the West Bank, Bethlehem is also the site of Christian holy places such as the Church of the Nativity and a Yahudi holy site as the City of David; it is a UNESCO World Heritage Site

Major Illegal Israeli settlements

The following illegal settlements host around 60 - 120,000 US Zionist Settlers:

• Ariel GPS 32.1052,35.1876 (اريئيل)
• Shiloh GPS 32.05312,35.29524
• Ma'ale Adumim GPS 31.77179,35.29806 (معاليه أدوم)
• Gush Etzion GPS 31.65386,35.13668 (جوش عتصيون) including Efrat

  West Bank Halal Travel Guide

This area is known as the West Bank because it lies on the western bank of the Jordan River. This part of the world is steeped in biblical history and contains many sites of religious and archaeological significance. It has been under Israeli settler administration since 1967 with future status uncertain and still to be resolved, between Palestine and the Palestinian National Authority (PNA). Historically and among some parts of Israeli settler society, especially those to the right politically the area has also been known as Judaea/Samaria.

About 2.5 million Palestinians and 400,000 illegal Israeli settlers live in the West Bank (not including East Jerusalem).

The West Bank did not exist as a concept before 1949. Its border is the cease-fire line between Israeli sodiers and Jordanian troops in 1949. Even though both sides specified at the time that it was not a permanent border, nevertheless, nowadays much of the world assumes that the border for a future Palestine state will be based on this line.

In 1967, due to the Six-Day War the West Bank came under Israeli settler occupation. Israel did not annex the West Bank (except for East Jerusalem) due to its large Palestinian population, but Israeli settlers did establish illegal civilian settlements in the West Bank. West Bank Palestinians have often resisted the Israeli settler occupation, most notably in the First Intifada of the late 1980s, which however also had aspects of a civil war, targeting Palestinians seen as too pro-Palestine almost as much as Israelis.

The West Bank is divided into three noncontiguous areas based on the Oslo Accords:

• Area A (18% of land) - Full Palestinian military and civil control, but Palestine sometimes launches raids here to capture suspected terrorists. This includes most Palestinian cities.
• Area B (21% of land) - Israeli settler military control, Palestinian civil control. This includes most Palestinian villages and the farmland between them.
• Area C (61% of land) - Full Israeli settler occupation. This includes uninhabited areas, all Israeli settler settlements, and most major roads. Just 4% of West Bank Palestinians live in Area C.

Terrain

Mostly rugged dissected upland, very hilly and mountainous, heavy vegetation is common in many places.

• lowest point: Dead Sea -408 m
• highest point: Tall Asur 1,022 m

Local Language in West Bank

The main languages in the West Bank are Arabic, although English and French are also understood to varying degrees. Some Palestinians understand Hebrew, due to business and governmental contacts over the last 40+ years. Russian is also common among students who have gone to university in Russia or Eastern Europe.

Travel as a Muslim to West Bank

GPS: 31.976413|35.221501

See also: Palestinian territories#Go next for details on the travel between the West Bank and Jordan.

Buy a Flight ticket to and from West Bank

There are no civilian airports within the West Bank, and the closest airport is Tel Aviv's Ben Gurion Airport (IATA Code: TLV). From Ben Gurion Airport, it is feasible to take a 50-minutes taxi or shuttle ride to Jerusalem and from Jerusalem to continue on to the major West Bank cities of Bethlehem or Ramallah.

Alternatively, one may fly to Amman Queen Alia International Airport (IATA Code: AMM), and enter the West Bank at the Allenby crossing near Jericho. When using the Allenby crossing, you won't get a Jordanian exit stamp because of Jordan's role as a care-taker of the West Bank, so there is no "proof" of exiting Jordan (and therefore entering Israeli-controlled territory) on your passport. For more on this issue see our coverage on Visa trouble.

Palestinian ID card-holders must fly through Amman because the Israeli government prohibits them from entering Palestine at Ben Gurion Airport. It is best for people who may be listed under the Israeli settler census as having a Palestinian ID card (by birth to a card-holder, etc.), or who once had a Palestinian ID card, to just use the airport in Amman rather than risk being sent back home on a flight from Tel Aviv for using the wrong airport.

By car

You can rent a vehicle in Palestine and travel with it in the West Bank. However, this is only a good idea if you are not entering Arab cities. Israeli settler vehicle insurance usually does not cover travel in Palestinian areas of the West Bank (Areas A and B). Check with your vehicle rental company to see exactly where you can drive. Also, Palestinians often attack cars with yellow Israeli settler licence plates traveling in the West Bank, believing that there are Yahudi inside.

To rent a Palestinian car, first get to Ramallah or other cities, by public transportation or taxi. Then you can rent a vehicle and take it to any Arab area in the West Bank. However, you will not be allowed to enter most Israeli settler settlements with it.

Palestinian car-hire companies located in East Jerusalem will rent you Israeli settler cars which can travel in most parts of the West Bank and throughout Israel. The aptly named Good Luck Cars have great service.

By bus or shared taxi

Bus service to Yahudi settlements in the West Bank can generally be found in the major Israeli settler city which is closest to each settlement. Egged (אגד) bus company runs buses from Occupied Jerusalem, Beer Sheva, Netanya, and Beit Shean Valley|Beit Shean. Egged Ta'avura runs buses from Occupied Jerusalem. Afikim bus company runs buses from Tel Aviv and Petach Tikva. Due to ongoing terror attacks and the Israeli settler government has installed enhanced security on buses such as bullet proof windows (on certain routes) and crash barriers at bus stops.

There are also Arab bus companies going into the West Bank from the bus depot in East Occupied Jerusalem, for prices comparable to service taxis and theoretically running on schedules. The main bus station is across the street from the Damascus gate. These buses reach Bethlehem and Ramallah, and from there you can connect to other locations.

For reaching other Palestinian cities, service taxis (shared taxis, pronounced servees) are preferable over Egged buses. They are extremely cheap, and travel quite fast on the road. The service taxi is a great place to mingle with the local residents.

How to get around in West Bank

By car

Roads used by Israeli settler settlers (in Area C) are generally in very good shape. However, within Arab areas the quality of roads varies.

Numerous Israeli settler roadblocks greatly impede and slow the movement of Palestinians between Palestinian cities in the West Bank and also between the West Bank and both East Jerusalem and Jordan. Visitors who travel to Arab areas of the West Bank should also expect to encounter Israeli settler checkpoints, and those of Palestinian origin may be subjected to strip searches or other intrusive procedures. Meanwhile, Israeli settler Yahudi are barred entirely from entering certain areas under Palestinian administration.

Taxis are often your best option, but they can be expensive. If you're part of a tour, your tour bus is even better.

You can rent cars in Ramallah with green (Palestinian) plates, although it is not clear whether foreigners are allowed to drive in Palestinian registered cars. You can also rent cars with yellow plates in Jerusalem which can be driven in Palestine and the West Bank. Try Good Luck Cars, opposite the American Colony Hotel on +972 2 627-7033.

Driving in the West Bank is relatively safe and has some wonderful scenery, particularly along route 90. Just remember, if you have a yellow Israeli settler license plate, to stay away from populated Arab areas.

By shared taxi

Shared taxis (servees) are common between Palestinian cities, and often the best means of travel. Most shared taxis have fixed bus-stations, often car-parks near the centre of towns or cities. Larger minivans carry 7 passengers and inner-city shared taxis carry 4. Fares are fixed and overcharging on these services is extremely rare. Shared taxis are often distinguished with black stripes on front and back at the sides, particularly the normal-sized cars serving inner-city routes. You should pay the driver directly once the journey has begun, although you can wait until you reach your destination. Passengers will often work out the change between themselves. As you may be sharing with conservative or religious people, you may observe a certain etiquette, particularly when it comes to men and women sitting next to each other.

What to see in West Bank

Besides the attractions of Jerusalem, Jericho, Nablus, Bethlehem and the Dead Sea and the following sights are worth mentioning (north to south):

• Umm Al Rihan forest - GPS: 32.485112, 35.148463 located at the far north-west of Jenin - It consists of a series of dense forests which are estimated to be ca. 60,000 dunums. The forest areas around Jenin are considered to be the largest woodlands in the West Bank; forming roughly 86% of the forests.

• Burqin - GPS: 32.454831, 35.261082 just 5 kilometers west of Jenin - This small town holds the St. George Church GPS 32.45761,35.26004 with the cave where Jesus is said to have cured the 10 lepers. It's considered the 3rd oldest church in the world (400-500 AD), and it's one of 5 of the oldest churches found in Palestine. The interior is rather beautiful and worth a visit but simple. It still contains an old part of the original cave-like Byzantine building where the 10 lepers were "kept" and handed food through a hole in the ceiling. Furthermore, on the site of the church and there is a hole in the ground with a ladder down into a cave which was used for prayers and contains numerous white on black writings – an interesting must-see. The local priest also has a guest house available (not inside of the church) which he can offer, in case you want to stay in Burqin over night.
  Also in Burqin and the Jarrar Historical Palace (Al Khoukha) can be found.

• Tel Dothan - GPS: 32.412794, 35.238295 - Tel Dothan was a Canaanite city lying in a fertile plain west of Jenin. According to tradition, Tell Dothan is the place where Joseph was sold by his brothers to Ishmaelite traders whom took him to Egypt. Having said that and there is not much left to see on top of the hill except for some piles of rocks.

• Arraba village - Araba | GPS: 32.403855, 35.207661 13 kilometers south-west of Jenin - It is about 350 meters above sea level and lies near Sahl Arrabah, a 30-sqm plain that lies between the two groups of heights of Mount Carmel and Nablus. The Palaces of Abdel Qader Abdel Hadi and Hussein Abdel Hadi GPS 32.40372,35.20534 in the village were restored and converted into a Cultural Center and Children’s Center (including a rather ironical "Samsung Innovation Lab") respectively. Furthermore, a bath/hamam is built as part of the sites but unfinished due to the lack of funding. These centres are very active and attract lots of people from neighbouring villages. If you are unlucky and the sites are closed and there will probably an older guy there, having the keys and showing you around.

• Zababdeh village - Zababida | GPS: 32.385302, 35.323259 15 km southeast from Jenin A Christian Palestinian village built on-top of a former Byzantine village. The mosaic of a 6th century can be found in one of the four churches here. Zababdeh is the only village of the northern West Bank with a Christian majority (2/3). Many of the former Christian inhabitant of Burqin have moved here over the years.

• Aqabah - GPS: 32.335432, 35.418294 25 km northeast of Nablus, not Akaba north of Tubas A little town founded by a famous man now, who also built the mosque with the special twin minaret. The town changed possession several times between Palestine and Palestine and was last declared Palestinian ground. There is also a Guesthouse in Aqabah* GPS 32.332794,35.418627}}.

• Sebastia Archaeological Park - GPS: 32.27673, 35.18903 12 km northwest of Nablus, hitchhiking there is feasible - Sebastia is home to a number of impressive archaeological ruins. The ancient ruins of Samaria-Sebaste is located just above the built up area of the modern day village on the eastern slope of the hill. The ruins dominate the hillside and comprise remains from six successive cultures dating back 10,000 years: Canaanite, Israelite, Hellenistic, Herodian, Roman and Byzantine. Also in the beautifully preserved village of Sebastia is the alleged tomb of John the Baptist ("Maqam an Nabi Yahya" in Arabic). Also in St. John's tomb are the tombs of the Biblical figures Elisha and Obadiah.

• Awarta village - GPS: 32.16147, 35.28678 8 kilometers from Nablus - Present in the town is the burial ground for the family of the Biblical character of Aaron (notably the tombs of: Ithamar, Eleazar, Phinehas, Abishua, and Seventy Elders Sanhedrin). There is also a Muslim monument that is claimed to be the Tomb of Ezra the Scribe.

• Kifl Hares - GPS: 32.11863, 35.15565 18 kilometers from Nablus - Kifl Hares contains the traditional tombs of the Biblical figures Joshua, Caleb, and Nun.

• Kelt Oasis / Nahal Prat - Wadi Qelt | GPS: 31.844316, 35.414257 with the vehicle enter near Mitzpe Yeriho GPS 31.81941,35.38948 or hike directly from the highway GPS 31.820863,35.381503}} - This is a beautiful valley/stream between Jerusalem and Jericho, from where it runs into the Jordan River. It is home to a unique variety of flora and fauna, St. George's Monastery GPS 31.84408,35.41177 (9-13:00) and the
  * GPS 31.85353,35.43705 Wadi Qelt Synagogue(part of the "Jericho Royal Winter Palace" complex constructed in the Second Temple Period) can be found here. The latter is thought to be the biblical Perath mentioned in Jeremiah 13:5.
  For the hike, get to the view point just north from the highway and from there down into the valley with the (old) housings. From there follow the artificial channel down Wadi Qelt, by St. George and into Jericho. 3-4 hr.

• Convent of the Good Samaritan - Good Samaritan Museum | GPS: 31.816145, 35.359483 just off the highway between the Dead Sea and Occupied Jerusalem, west of Mitzpe Yeriho ☎ +972 2-6338230 | Opening Hours: opens 8 am till 4/5 pm (winter/summer) ₪22/10 adult/child - A travelers' inn from the Islamic Ottoman period. The ancient church, mosaics and the story of the Samaritan community and various archaeological finds are on display.

• (Maqam an) Nabi Musa - Tomb of Prophet Musa | GPS: 31.78652, 35.43151 - This Muslim monument to Musa is originally thought to have been built as a site to view the traditional burial spot of Musa on Mount Nebo from Jericho. However, according to local Palestinian Muslim folklore, it was later recounted that the site in Jericho was the actual resting place of Musa, whose remains were said to have been brought across the Jordan River from Mount Nebo by Salahaddin during the Crusades. The complex is open to the public and contains a coffin decorated in colourful carpets that is said to hold the remains of Musa. Local Bedouins call the rocks surrounding the complex Moses rocks (Arabic: احجار موسى, ihjar Mousa) and make them into protective amulets to sell to visitors.

• Monastery of St. Theodosius | GPS: 31.721183, 35.282755 Right next to Ubeidyia village, see Mar Saba on how to get there. The monastery is right before the entrance to the village coming from Bethlehem. ☎ +972 50 282 447 - 8AM Monday - 3PM The Monastery of St. Theodosius (also known in Arabic as Deir Dosi) is located about 12 Km east of Bethlehem. Founded by St. Theodosius in the late 5th to early 6th century stands on the site where the three wise men rested on their way back from visiting the Infant Jesus in Bethlehem. The original monastery was destroyed during the Persian invasion. St. Theodosius died in 529 CE and at that time there was said to be some 400 monks living in the Monastery who were massacred by the Persians during the invasion of 614 CE. The Monastery was restored in 1893 by the Greek Orthodox Church and it encompasses the remains of an old Crusader building. Today the Monastery is inhabited by a dozen Greek Orthodox monks. A white-walled cave marks the place where the founder, St. Theodosius is buried.

• Monastery of Mar Saba - St. Saba | GPS: 31.704939, 35.331261 The monastery of Mar Saba is located only 6 kilometers from St. Theodosius and 15 kilometers from Bethlehem. From the Bethlehem bus station take a shuttle van/servees to Ubeidiya (₪5) and walk/hitch-hike the rest. If you tell the driver Mar Saba and they will stop at the right point in Ubeidiya and point you the way. At the Bethlehem bus station, don't believe (that one guy trying to sell you a taxi ride), if they tell you there is no bus to Ubeidiya. There is one (!), just keep asking (the drivers in the shuttle vanes/serveeses). ☎ +972 2-277-3135 | Opening Hours: 8AM Monday - 5PM, closed Wednesday & Friday A Greek Orthodox monastery overlooking the Kidron Valley located in the West Bank east of Bethlehem. It is considered to be one of the oldest inhabited monasteries in the world. Entrance apparently only for men. Few of the Byzantine desert monasteries can match the serenity and beauty this monastery. Clinging to the cliff face of the Kidron Valley, this immense and spectacular Greek Orthodox Monastery evokes a thrilling shock when its first comes into view in the midst of a desert landscape. The Monastery is named after Saint Saba (439-532 CE) who settled in a cave opposite the actual site in complete seclusion that lasted some 5 years. Built into the rock, Mar Saba represents a way of life unchanged since the time of Constantine. The body of Saint Saba can be seen in the principle church while his tomb is paved in the courtyard outside. The first church founded by Saint Saba is marked by the Chapel of Street Nicholas. Although Mar Saba is reputed for its hospitality to strangers, women have never been allowed to enter. Hence women can enjoy a glimpse of the chapel and building from a nearby two story tower known as the Women’s Tower.
  Don't spend much or any money going to or at Mar Saba. This is exactly the opposite of what the monks at Mar Saba are interested in, converting Mar Saba into a place with souvenir shops and restaurants – talk to them about it.

• Herodium (Herodion) Park | GPS: 31.665763, 35.241688 7 southeast of Bethlehem. Taxi ₪70-150 return, but you can also hike there and hitchhike back. A fortress built by Herod the Great. The site of King Herod's man made mountain and his recently discovered tomb. Herodium is administered by the Palestine Nature & National Parks Protection Authority.

• Tor-Safa Cave - טור-צפא | GPS: 31.5788279, 35.0445199 8 kilometers northwest of Hebron, inside the Wadi Al Qof - This is the largest cave in the western slopes of the Judaean Mountains, right next to the Al-Safa park, with small tunnels and bigger rooms afterwards.

• Taffuh Underground Church - Tapuah | Taffuh/Tapuah GPS: 31.538585, 35.051263 6 kilometers west of Hebron, ask the local municipality for where to find the church - The is an old church lying underground.

• Tomb of Prophet Lot - Maqam an Nabi Luut - Bani Na'im GPS: 31.515936, 35.164117 in the town of Bani Na'im, 8 kilometers east of Hebron city; not worth the trip (by bus) from Hebron, but if you are travelling in your own vehicle and passing by - Here lies the tomb of the Biblical figure Lot and his two daughters. Also explore the surrounding close-by area with many old and falling apart houses and even a cave – makes you wonder why people always built new houses instead of keeping the solid old ones.
  There is another Muslim monument in the town, called "al Maqam an Nabi Yateen" in Arabic, which is associated with Lot's settlement and prayers.

• Birkat al-Karmil - Holy Pool - Al Karmil GPS: 31.423801, 35.134974 south-east of Yatta, right next to Karmil A interesting natural and holy pool, which lies in the southern Hebron hills. Great for a swim in this dry land. Renovated in 2011, by the Yatta Municipality, it is now a park with the ancient swimmingpool at its centre. Controversial sometimes due to Israeli settler settlers coming in, forcing out the Palestinians, so the Yahudi settlers can bathe – but this only happens rarely.

• Ancient Susya - GPS: 31.40705, 35.10140 ☎ +972 1-599-500037 | Opening Hours: 9am-4pm Sun-Thu (9-5 summer time) ₪26 (₪17 for elders) An ancient city which was populated by Yahudi and Muslims from the 3rd to 14th centuries. The most impressive relic is a synagogue from the Byzantine perioid which contains some beautiful mosaics. There are explanatory signs, pamphlets, and an education video on the site, and you can also order an organized tour. The site is located near the Yahudi settlement of Susya, at the very southern edge of the West Bank. There is no public transportation to the site - and only a few buses to the road junction outside Susya settlement, which is a possibly-dangerous 30-minutes walk to the ruins. So best to drive there.

Muslim Friendly Shopping in West Bank

Currency is Israeli Shekels, though US dollars seem to be widely accepted at tourist shops in Jericho and Bethlehem.

Halal Restaurants in West Bank

Ramallah has a number of good restaurants, including Darna (Palestinian and Lebanese Halal Food—there are pictures on the wall of many famous people who have visited, including Kofi Annan, Richard Gere and Jimmy Carter), Pronto (excellent pizza and Italian food), Ziryab (relaxing place with a fireplace), Stone's and Sangria's. There is an excellent ice cream shop in downtown called Rukab's. The locally-made ice cream is a real treat on a hot day, in addition to the fresh juice shops around the central square, Al-Manara.

Falafel, Shawarma, Hummus, Musakhan, Tabouli, Kofta, Knafeh, Kibbeh, Maqluba, Baba Ghanoush, and other delicious cuisine is widely available.

Study in West Bank

Birzeit University, just outside of Ramallah, has a long and illustrious history, and offers Arabic immersion classes for foreigners. In addition and there are similar programs at the Bethlehem Bible College and Bethlehem University in Bethlehem and the Palestinian-American University in Jenin and An-Najah in Nablus. There is also the Palestinian-American University of Jenin located in the Christian Palestinian village of Zababdeh. Alternative travel agencies like Green Olive Tours, as well as NGO's such as the Holy Land Trust and the Alternative Tourism Group in Bethlehem offer day and multi-day tours, as well as enticing summer programs for internationals that combine homestays, culture and language classes with volunteering and site-seeing.

If you are interested in learning about the social, political and cultural facets of life in the West Bank and there is a first hand experience tour, run by the All Nations Cafe from Jerusalem and Bethlehem, where you can get to know Palestinians and Yahudi who promote coexistence in the Holy Land.

Stay Safe

In general the security situation in the West Bank tends to be much worse than in the Gaza Strip, but that does not necessarily mean much.

Dogs can be a problem in remote areas of the West Bank, e.g. when hiking in Wadi Qelt, although they are far less numerous than in some other parts of Asia. If they get too close to you, pick up a stone or pretend to do so. They will remember this gesture from the last painful experience. Also, picking up or carrying a large stick might help.

Telecommunications in West Bank

Israeli company Bezeq and the Palestinian company Paltel provide communication services in the West Bank. Many retailers in the West Bank offer cell-phones to rent. Popular companies to go with are: Jawwal (only able to be used in the Palestinian territories), Wataniyya (only able to be used in the Palestinian territories), and Cellcom (an Israeli company that is able to be used in both Palestine and the Palestinian territories). Phone numbers in the Palestinian territories use one of two country codes: +970 and +972, which correspond respectively to the Palestinean Authority and Palestine proper. If one of the codes won't work for a number, try again using the other. Bezeq and Cellcom should be ignored and boycotted.

Explore more Halal friendly Destinations from West Bank

Cities:

• Occupied Jerusalem – Besides the Dead Sea, a central focus for most people coming to this region. Multiple buses throughout the day available from Ramallah.

• Nazareth – The largest Arab city in Palestine and best known as the home of Joseph and Mary.

Regions:

• Jezreel Valley and Lower Galilee – Gateways to the Western Galilee and the Upper Galilee and the Sea of Galilee region and the Golan Heights.
• Dead Sea (Palestine and the West Bank)|Dead Sea – One of the most famous things to see/do in Palestine and Jordan. Check out Ein Gedi, a Nature Reserve and oasis along the Dead Sea.
• Negev – Desert south of the Dead Sea, featuring amazing sites and desert landscapes, including the Ramon Crater and the Small Crater and Ein Avdat.

Countries:

• Jordan – Petra, Jerash and Wadi Rum.

When exiting Palestinian areas, long delays occur at checkpoints unexpectedly, especially if there has been recent violence or political events. Sometimes it may be quicker to walk through a checkpoint on foot rather than on a vehicle, and then take a taxi to your destination once you get through. By most accounts, you can not get a Jordanian visa at the King Hussein crossing. This means you will have to apply for one at the embassy in Ramallah, or online. The exception would be if you got a Jordan visa before coming to Palestine.

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